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Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
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Ariel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Armed Forces S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Arms Reduction T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Army T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Better Than Better Than Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Better than Love T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Casual Slabs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Celestial Pile T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Devil May Care T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Forget Me Not T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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God's Kingdom on Earth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Guardian, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gunky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heaven and Hell S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hellbound S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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In God We Trust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Inscrutable T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Like Hell It Is T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Love T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Party Of One T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pepé Le sPew S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pious Polecats S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Seeker, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Stairway to Heaven T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Wanderer, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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What, What? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Who, Who? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Jim Erikson, free solo, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 846 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 20, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a reasonable route that could use some more cleaning, though we cleaned it up quite a bit already.
Climb up the steady overhang getting a few surprisingly good flakes and avoiding some not-so-obviously bad ones (but bad none the less). **Stretch** up over a crux to place a hand or large-sized cam (3"), and pull through with the gear above you on some questionable feet.
Once established up there, the next 90' are easier climbing but for an awkward bulge here and there. Sparse protection is adequate and seems to come when you want or need it.
Save a 2 or 2.5" piece for a directional, and beware that the top crack is a rope jammer/eater. I put a barkless stick in it to prop the rope out on a 'bearing' of sorts and it was a tremendous help. The stick is still up there. Lastly, I wore stiff high-tops on the climb, because I expected OW. There is far more (that being any) sloper, rounded feet than actual OW climbing with feet, so sport shoes or at least softer ones would have been much better.
Climb up the steady overhang getting a few surprisingly good flakes and avoiding some not-so-obviously bad ones (but bad none the less). **Stretch** up over a crux to place a hand or large-sized cam (3"), and pull through with the gear above you on some questionable feet.
Once established up there, the next 90' are easier climbing but for an awkward bulge here and there. Sparse protection is adequate and seems to come when you want or need it.
Save a 2 or 2.5" piece for a directional, and beware that the top crack is a rope jammer/eater. I put a barkless stick in it to prop the rope out on a 'bearing' of sorts and it was a tremendous help. The stick is still up there. Lastly, I wore stiff high-tops on the climb, because I expected OW. There is far more (that being any) sloper, rounded feet than actual OW climbing with feet, so sport shoes or at least softer ones would have been much better.
Location
To the left of Love and Better Than Love, there is another peak/tower on the cliffline. Back in a slightly obtuse corner there is a flaky overhang that ascends several body-lengths to reach a ledge, jam, then OW....
Getting to that crack overhangs solidly and steadily and is the crux.
Getting to that crack overhangs solidly and steadily and is the crux.
Protection
I climbed this with Camalots from #0.5 to #6. I had doubles of #5 and #6, and could have placed another #1, 2, and 3 and been happy about it.
Most useful of all on this route were the yellow and purple at the crux at the bottom, behind flakes. What I *WISH* I'd had was a 2-2.5" Friend, HB, FCU, or likewise. Anything shorter along the axle than the red Camalot, which was 1/4" too long along the axle to fit in the only REALLY solid placement before pulling the crux. So take such a thing and be happier....
Most useful of all on this route were the yellow and purple at the crux at the bottom, behind flakes. What I *WISH* I'd had was a 2-2.5" Friend, HB, FCU, or likewise. Anything shorter along the axle than the red Camalot, which was 1/4" too long along the axle to fit in the only REALLY solid placement before pulling the crux. So take such a thing and be happier....
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