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Corral Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fistfull of Poodles T 
Chuck Wagon Crack T 
City Slickers TR 
Corral Crack T 
Herd Instinct T 
High Plains Drifter T 
Honky Justice T 
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 
Party in the Desert T 
Party till Ya' Puke T 
Ranch Hand T 
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 
Six-Gun by My Side T 
Way Out West TR 
Wild Wild West S 

Party in the Desert 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bart Groendycke and Todd Alston, February 1990
Page Views: 1,767
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Chris Parks climbs 'Party in the Desert' (10b). Ph...

Description 

The Corral Wall is broken into two distinct halves which are separated by a deep chimney/gully system. This route takes a mixed line on the left side immediately right of a wide crack with some wedged boulders up high.

Easily the best climb at the Corral Wall, this varied route starts with polished edges (crux) into a hand crack that ends at a horizontal crack below a headwall. Clip a bolt on the headwall and make balancy moves up to another bolt where lieback moves transition to delicate steep edges. Continue on past another horizontal (1.25" piece here) to a last bolt where some final slab moves lead to bolted anchors.

The good rock and engaging moves combine to make this a Corral Wall favorite. Three stars out of five.

Protection 

3 bolts (1/2"), pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap (1/2")


Photos of Party in the Desert Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Corral Wall -- shows routes from Chuck Wagon Crack to Party in the Desert
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Corral Wall -- shows routes from Chuc...
The lower portion of Party In The Desert (5.10b). Wild Wild West (5.10+) climbs the narrow pillar just to the right.
The lower portion of Party In The Desert (5.10b). ...
 Setting up for the balancy crux moves at the second bolt.
Setting up for the balancy crux moves at the seco...
"Party In The Desert". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Party In The Desert".
Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Party in the Desert Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 11, 2013
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 4, 2003

If I recall correctly (it was '95 I think), the crux is right BEFORE the second bolt. I remember because as I was trying to regain my balance after high-stepping, I fell before clipping it and took a 20-footer! Balancy indeed!
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 24, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An intricate climb with lots of cool moves. My crux was after clipping the first bolt, I did a messy lunge move for the bottom of the third crack, smack my wrist.
By Blitzo
Oct 8, 2006

Good route, probably my favorite at this crag.
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 27, 2006

All the bolts on this route have been replaced; it was somewhat surprising how easily the original 5/16" buttonheads came out.
By Murf
Jan 22, 2007

Repeated use has polished the start of this thing to epic proportions. Entry moves seem harder than 10b to me, if only for a couple of moves.
By Dave Daly
From: Del Mar, CA
Oct 1, 2007

IMO, the intial moves getting to the bottom of the crack was the crux. Getting to the third bolt seemed a bit of a mental crux. Excellent route! My first Josh .10b.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Dec 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

more mental than anything
By JOHN HYDE
From: twentynine palms ca
Aug 13, 2009

great route, the crux is at the beginning of the route, it's very polished over time
By attila
Feb 24, 2010

In my opinion, this route is at least 5.11 off the deck. Our party of 3, all solid 5.10 climbers, was shut down on the start of this route.
By The Gray Tradster
Feb 24, 2010

The start is "worn out".

But, it's "The Monument" so the first ten feet don't count.

Rating stays the same.
By T. Alston
Jun 2, 2012

Nice to hear so many people are enjoying this route. Party in the Desert and Exfoliation Confrontation were put up on the same weekend in Feb. 1990. First routes on the Corral Wall.
Cheers!
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Dec 9, 2012

OK, I get it that ratings are "old school" at JTree but this is ridiculous. The first few moves are nowhere near 5.10b. Maybe not even 5.11b.
By Richard Shore
Dec 19, 2012

^^^ "maybe not even .11b."

Get real, dude. My girlfriend did the move first try and she's no .11b climber. One left sidepull with foot in opposition gets you onto a better right foot and then the crack.
By MikeP ROWCC
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Didn't find the start as hard as some people on here. It was certainly sequential and started with a high step sidepull to get going. A couple of slick footholds gets you into a 5.8 crack with bomber gear. The second bolt was spicy! Almost barndoored off! A little runout beyond that but the climbing lets up.
By Rob M
From: Fullerton, ca
Mar 11, 2013

Start is very polished and IMHO a 10c move, maybe d, at least with my towering 5'9" frame. A longer reach could probably get a better hand and smear the feet.

No longer a 10b folks. Will try the sidepull next time and re-evaluate.