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I am entering this route from a few vague notes recorded in my book from Dec of '02. It does not seem to appear in the Swain guidebooks, or at least I could not reconcile it with anything until the Handren Book, which clearly showed it to be Party Down, a bolted "5.12." It felt a lot easier, but I admit that the grade noted is only my guess.
To the right of the climbs Cut Loose and Foot Loose, but well left of the pocketed wall and climb Marshall Amp, there is a rounded boulder, nearly ball-shaped with 3 bolts on the face leading to a 2-bolt anchor. Climb this strenuous line to the anchor and lower off. Most of the holds are odd horizontals and pockets, but a few edges give more pump. Short, but OK fun if you are in the area.
On the S. Face of a ball-shaped boulder there are 3 bolts leading to an anchor...
5 draws. 3 for bolts, 2 for the top.
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Basically a roped boulder problem. Feels V3/4ish, so 12a doesn't seem like a stretch. Hard to give a route grade, though.
I thought it was very fun with nice movement on neat holds. Well worth climbing. Better with the proper low start.
|By J tot|
From: Tempe, AZ
Mar 14, 2010
Roped boulder problem.. I would agree. "Red Rocks : A Climber's Guide" by Jerry Handren gives it 5.12b and only 25feet.
This route is definitely shorter than 40feet. Much shorter.