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Partner Needed: September 15-18 @ City of Rock & Slick Rock
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By Shawn Cook 1
From Fayetteville, West Virginia
Aug 29, 2014
Looking for a partner to climb moderate (up to 5.10) routes at City of Rocks and Slick Rock September 15-18. Would really like to get on the longer, bolted Slick Rock routes. This is my first time in the area.

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By MaraC
Aug 29, 2014
taking a break from climbing shoes before rapping ...
I'll be at City of Rocks around then. Hanging out with the camp host at Smoky Mountain Campground, who is a friend of a friend. It'll be my first time out there too. Would be psyched to rope up with some new people!

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By Shawn Cook 1
From Fayetteville, West Virginia
Aug 29, 2014
do you have a tic list for City of Rocks? Some climbs you would like to lead? I climb at NRG in WV, mostly steep one pitch climbs. It would be great to get off the ground a little, if there are some multipitch climbs. Thanks for checking in. I can be at COR the afternoon of the 15th. I have to be in Jackson Hole on the following Friday. Would be open to suggestions for those open days. Would be glad to discuss some possibilities.

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By MaraC
Aug 30, 2014
taking a break from climbing shoes before rapping ...
I think most stuff at The City is single pitch...but I can find out. I don't have a list ; mostly just trying to get out and climb as much of whatever I can. I'm a Gunkie looking to expand her repertoire. Gotta love extended road trips! Will PM my contact info.

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By Shawn Cook 1
From Fayetteville, West Virginia
Aug 31, 2014
I guess I will pick up a guide book at some point. I don't do many road trips. This will be my first trip to Idaho, and really anywhere other than WV/NC/Ky/TN in more than 10.

Looking at this website, there seems to be a wide variety, and a few two pitch climbs. Have you been to Slick Rock by chance?

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By MaraC
Aug 31, 2014
taking a break from climbing shoes before rapping ...
Nope, this will be my first time out West besides twice to Red Rocks.

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By LLubchenco
From GWS, CO
Aug 31, 2014
You guys should definitely tick off a bunch of the multi-pitch climbs in the City! Jackson's Thumb and the dome next to it offer awesome moderate outings all with great protection. Also, check out Castle rocks State park as there are some great things there as well!

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By Shawn Cook 1
From Fayetteville, West Virginia
Aug 31, 2014
Thanks....Castle Rock has some real possibilities.....I will be in/around/between COR and Jackson Hole for two weeks. Do you have any other thoughts.

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By Maurice Chaunders
Sep 1, 2014
Colombian Crack
PM me. I'm in Boise and will want to do slick rock. I have a nice place for us to stay in McCall too.

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By JimPace
Sep 11, 2014
I'm free for McCall's Slick Rock the 15th through the 18th. I own a house there too.

There are one or two of the newer routes I haven't done yet. But beware, some dude there bolted the shit out of some of the nicer lower slabs in this past year, in ignorance of local standards.

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By Shawn Cook 1
From Fayetteville, West Virginia
Sep 11, 2014
Jim
Would really enjoy climbing some slick rock routes with you. I did make a commitment for 15-16, but still have the 17th and 18th open. I will be coming from City of Rocks, but could start around 9-10, maybe earlier on the 17th. If this would work for you, let me know. Thanks.

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By JimPace
Sep 15, 2014
Shawn,

I think I can get up there, if you could pick me up on your way through Boise. I have to leave the car for my wife's use.

We can stay at my place in town, on the river. It's nice.

If you're good with company, I'd like to ask another friend or two to join us. Pat McGrane from Boise, or Art Troutner or John Platt from McCall. All three are very familiar with Slick Rock. The weather should be perfect.

Jim Pace

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By Maurice Chaunders
Sep 16, 2014
Colombian Crack
Any of you guys work? How bout a weekend ascent of slick rock? Anyone?

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By JimPace
Sep 16, 2014
I'm planning in floating the N Fork below town this weekend. The fall release at Lardo dam has started. But I bet you can find a partner for the weekend too.

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By Maurice Chaunders
Sep 16, 2014
Colombian Crack
What section of the N Fork are you referring to? I have a 9 ft paddle boat that's looking to get gnarly

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By JimPace
Sep 17, 2014
The section starting at the sheep bridge across from the smoke jumper base. Canoeing. Meeting people there at 11.

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By Sean Gould
From McCall, Idaho
Sep 23, 2014
I explored Memorial, Regular, and Slippery Slope this year, and did not see where anything had been bolted to shit (but I could easily miss seeing things). Where are these new bolts? Also, what are the local standards on these matters and by whose consensus did they form? I'm not challenging, just want to learn.

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By JimPace
Sep 23, 2014
I am glad you found those routes relatively unchanged. I was referring to what I found on the routes to climbers left on the wall, the two and three pitch climbs that were previously minimally bolted in good style (IMHO). Now they have sprouted new bolts.

Other climbs in the area, particularly the Thinking Spot, have recently acquired many new bolts, in my opinion unnecessarily. There does need to be more discussion about local standards with regards to retro-bolting existing climbs. In the past, the local climbing community was very hesitant to mar rock previously climbed cleanly. But apparently a new group of climbers in town either do not know of that history and think they are the first ascenders, or they don't think slabby runouts are ok. Or perhaps they have reasons I am not aware of.

I would love to get together with other McCall climbers, new and old, to have a mutually respectful discussion about permanent placements of pro and anchors.

This weekend I'll be at Castle Rock SP. for the festival, but the week after, if the weather cooperates, back to Slick Rock?

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By Maurice Chaunders
Sep 23, 2014
Colombian Crack
JimPace wrote:
I would love to get together with other McCall climbers, new and old, to have a mutually respectful discussion about permanent placements of pro and anchors.


This seems like a good place to have that discussion Jim, no? Also kinda makes me wonder what a "local" climber is...McCall residents only? Also makes me wonder about LNT ethics. These seem like a good standard, even for climbing in places like Slick Rock. LNT ethics would have you strain your dish water and spray your toothpaste spit, leaving relatively "no" trace. I'd argue that the bolts on Slick Rock are in that vein. If you got down on your knees and smelled the ground where LNT campers spent the night, you'd find crushed bugs, compacted soil, smelly water, a properly dug cathole and other standard LNT traces. Likewise with Slickrock, you'd have to be a few hundred feet up the formation to find the bolts. Tat and webbing is different, of course, but it's hard to spot most bolts, even when you are climbing the route and actively looking for them.

So why not put bolts in? What's the harm? Hurting the first ascensionists feelings? This is all fodder for bolt war sprays, I suppose, so maybe it's not worth trying to discuss...although I agree that:

JimPace wrote:
There does need to be more discussion about local standards with regards to retro-bolting existing climbs. In the past, the local climbing community was very hesitant to mar rock previously climbed cleanly. But apparently a new group of climbers in town either do not know of that history and think they are the first ascenders, or they don't think slabby runouts are ok. Or perhaps they have reasons I am not aware of.


We all seem to make decisions about bolting, irregardless of local standards. There were no bolts, and then there were some, and now there are more. If the bolts aren't visible from the road, as most are not, they really are only hurting the first ascensionists feelings, no? And even grid bolting has its place, no? There are plenty of tight canyons in RR that are grid bolted, mostly because...there are so many climbs so close together. We'll likely never see that in McCall, due to the nature of the rock, and I'm not advocating we become a circus like many places in RR.

And a side note, I'm not a fan of slabby runouts on easier terrain. I don't think a bolt should be the thing that could prevent death on a 5.6 climb or pitch. What if you belayer gets attacked by bees and pulls the rope and yanks you on your face? Personal preference of course, and I'm not from McCall, nor have I bolted anything or contributed to the climbing scene.

I hope you see that I am not trying to be argumentative Jim. This is my opinion and my contribution to the discussion. I've lived in Boise for a year and have climbed in McCall exactly one time - 2 days on Slick Rock.

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By Sean Gould
From McCall, Idaho
Sep 23, 2014
Slick rock, as is, seems appropriate. The thinking spot has been heavily bolted, but it seems to be standing as the local sport crag. I don't know who did the new bolts on the thinking spot. The two 5.8 (far left) seem a bit redundant, but no big deal. Otherwise, I utilize all the new work done out there. The top anchors across from the thinking spot (by north beach boulders) seem alright, although their routes still look dirty. non trad climbers can top rope, there I guess. I never see anyone climbing Lawson's fireman's point route (which has one bolt), cept for some use of the anchors. The slube wall seems to be an odd place for a heavily bolted line, although natural pro is not possible, it is right on the road and a bit shiny. Also, while the top anchors on the boulder of lick crick summit could likely be replace by a crash pad, I'm not sure how I'd feel about a few lines in that area. Jug handle should get minimal bolting in keeping with its special FS designation. Generally, I think existing routes/new routes should be bolted well enough to avoid an R, or hardly bolted at all (if the bolts aren't used, they're nearly litter). So the added bolts to Slick Rock seem well placed. My dad climbed the thinking spot with pitons, and new bolts neither diminish, nor keep anyone from repeating, that experience. maybe paint the nuts on retro bolts red so they can be skipped by those who don't want them. And please paint bolts grey. And Bolts should be avoided where trad climbing occurred or is a moderately safe option, except where anchors are required. and bolts should stay out of the back country, especially those managed as wilderness or proposed wilderness. In generally, we should try to concentrate the heavy bolting to just a few areas, leaving the rest as is. But that's just my initial position, which isn't much since As of now I don't trad nor set bolts of my own. And I'll happily discuss matters further, here, at slick rock or the thinking spot, or at SRB whenever anyone's down.

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By JimPace
Sep 24, 2014
My position is mostly where Sean Gould is on this, with one or two additional thoughts. I grew up with climbing elders who insisted good form means at least matching the first ascenders of a route in style, and possibly improving on it. We all read the clean climbing essay in that first Great Pacific Iron Works catalog and bought into that concept. So what did an "improved style" mean? Freeing an aid route, with clean pro. For instance, chocks instead of pins. Leaving the hammer at home. Redpointing a route that first went after multiple tries. Alpine style in the big ranges instead of expedition sieges. And perhaps most importantly, a leave no trace ethic that included minimal use of fixed, permanent protection. If the first ascenders didn't need bolts, then we don't either. But when bolts are absolutely necessary, then a better style is to place them on lead, like the first guys. Another overriding principle was to give subsequent climbers as close to a first ascent experience as possible. Thinking about what the seventh generation following you will find. The rock will be around much longer than we will be, and it will show the trace of our passage, if we are not careful. I still think these are good principles to follow.

Maurice, I hope I don't sound argumentative either. You certainly don't. I am probably guilty of sounding a little preachy. It is a sure sign of old age.

Who is a local McCall climber? Anyone who wants to be, and cares about the place. McCall's great beauty and solid rock is worth thoughtful discussion, and a eye towards the long now.

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By Chris Re
From Boise, ID
Sep 24, 2014
Bolting in McCall
Bolting in McCall


I have thought of bolting some of my favorite micro-traxion lines, but I have been too lazy. Why bother? I doubt any would ever go there. But if they did, it would depress me even more to find a group of climbers milling about. There are few steep overhanging granite crags that get summer morning shade.

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