Partition  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Michal Pasniewski on Nov 9, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Partition (5.9-)

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Description 

P1: recommended start variation is Butterflies Are Free (100 feet, 5.9-)
P2: the huge dihedral with a crack (5.9) sits above the 3rd class ramp. Very sustained. In some places no real features for stemming. Left wall below the offwith was dripping wet but I was able to use the right side "ramp" and stemming to move into the overhanging offwith. It felt more like 5.10. Stand up, and high reach will get you to better, if rounded, holds and exit.

Location 

Approach - see Butterflies Are Free. Descent: walk on slabs and gain thin trail at the top of the cliff, walk right maybe 300feet, then down through some slabs and drainage where you see rock band on your left and right. On the right there would be some pine tops behind cliffs - that's where you get to 3rd class descent to rap slings on the pines (marked on the topo). Be careful; it's sandy/full of pine needles there. One exactly 100 feet rap gets you to the complicated terrain below the walls. Scramble to climber's left along the cliffs.

Protection 

gear to 3" (blue camalot), doubles in #1 and #2.