Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lost T
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
CB Love Grannys T 
Crimps Are For Pimps T 
Dike, The T 
Emily Doesn't Have a Clue T 
Expiration 66 T 
Fat People Are Harder To Kidnap T 
Five Star Crack T 
Flavor of the Day T 
Freckles and No Lipstick T 
Keegans 5.8 T 
Keyhole, The T 
Little Kisses T 
Parthenope T 
Spelunking Midget T 
Ten B T 
Waiting for the Sun T 
Wide Crack T 

Parthenope 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Climb face to bolts to anchor (shared with Little Kisses). Look all around for gear, it's there.


Location 

On the face between Little Kisses and Five Star Crack.


Protection 

Bolts, standard rack, small cams useful



Comments on Parthenope Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Apr 18, 2012

Little Kisses is one of the best crack climbs in the Southern Adirondack and Five Star Crack is not far off as well for their respective grades. This route seems to border on route crowding. I can understand bolting a featured face that has no pro otherwise, but I would say that a bunch of bolts crowding perfectly good crack climbs is a bit over the top. Contrived isn't necessarily a bad thing, but if it starts to crowd out "natural" lines for the sake of one more route, I think it crosses the line, kind of begging the question "Why not climb one of the cracks and TR the face between?" Just saying... does not fit the narrative of typical ADK tradition. Overuse of bolts, bolting next to bomber gear, and bolting unnatural lines i.e. "traverses" does not either.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 26, 2012

The bolting of this line might have a lot to do with the style of climbing for locals established at Moss Island (Little Falls), where routes are literally a couple feet from each other at times (crowded). I can imagine the tendency is to try and squeeze as many climbs into Lost T in a similar manner, resulting in climbs like this being put up. The bolting was probably unnecessary, I doubt we'll see many wanting to lead it which means it probably could have served its purpose just as well as a top rope climb and left as a R/X without bolts. Plus, the bolts are literally 3 feet apart near the top. If you're leading 5.11 and can't stand more than 3 feet of distance between pro might I suggest going back to the gym and getting one's lead head in better shape?

By Michael John Gray
From: Queensbury, NY
Apr 26, 2012

I have never been to Little Falls. Although I could see the point, this is not Little Falls. My only concern is does this set a standard for others to seek justification? There is amazing climbing here!! Cheers and enjoy! =)

By Bowzer
From: Albany, NY
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I did not find this line to be crowded or contrived. On the contrary, I found it to be an incredibly enjoyable, and very obvious, line. Also, I didn't find the bolts on this route had any impact on the quality of Little Kisses. Regardless, Lost T is an amazing place and I appreciate the effort put into it by the developers.