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Lizard Head Wall
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Another Day At The Office 
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Squeeze My Lemon 
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Part Time Crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Dallen Ward, Bryce Perkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,651
Submitted By: Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the slab crack of Part Time Crack

Description 

This route was created for someone trying to break into Trad climbing It protects well and is easy to climb with great gear placements . All the starts are fun. the 5.5 start is perfect for people trying to break into leading trad. The 5.8 start has no pro but is a really fun way to start the climb. I like this approach better then the original start to Blue Collar Crack


Location 

This route sits below the blue collar crack on the lizard head buttress.There are 3 starts to this route depending on what you want to do. Down from Blue Collar Crack and Zesty you will find a 5.8 slab/chicken head start 4 moves. Around the corner there is a 5.5 start and if you walk along the base of the rock you can do a long traverse into the steeper part.5.5-5.6


Protection 

It is all Traditional Gear standard rack for the beginner nuts, tcu's and hand sized cams 2 bolt anchor on top. great belay for Blue Collar Crack



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By James Garrett
Jun 13, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

Dallen,
Do you do gardening piece work? Some spick and spam cracks up there!!
Congratulations.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 22, 2008

I was impressed how clean this was. Great cleaning job. Is an almost perfect first trad lead.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Nov 22, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

Super easy route, but pretty darn fun for being so easy. And yeah, like everyone else has said, this things is nice and clean.

By Bruce Koch
Oct 1, 2013

Was pretty difficult to find since you cannot see it very well from the ground. I should have taken a photo. From the bottom of Zesty, you need to traverse at the base of the rock to the left through some brush, or go down and immediately back up to the 5 foot 5.8 chicken head start.

I did the "5.6" traversing start (40 ft down and left) under the roof with the pro high in the obviously cleaned crack. The last 8ft of the traverse before the base of the main crack was tricky undercling/sloper combo. My second (about to do his first trad lead) slipped and took a fall and a swing there because of the dirty slab.

The main crack itself was as advertised, a good easy first trad lead with lots of gear placement options. (once we finally got there!)

Recommend the 5.5 ramp start.