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A.V.P. Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aint Got Time To Bleed 
blockade 
Blockaid Sit 
Carmine 
Casual Tees'. 
Distance Dyno 
Dutch 
Front Man 
Front Man (Left Exit)  
Front Man (stand start) 
Lifestyles 
Mothership 
Parlier's Problem 
Pocket Shot 
resurrection 
Ripley Lip Traverse 
Sigourney Weaver 
Thats My Money 
Volatile 
Warm Up 
Wing-Man (Stand) 
Wing-Man Sit 
Xenomorph 

Parlier's Problem 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Shane Messer
Season: not winter
Page Views: 636
Submitted By: Aaron James Parlier on Jul 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Aaron James Parlier past the first three moves on ...

Description 

on the back of the boulder; Deep under the rear overhang (opposite end from Frontman) you will find a massive undercling (you'll have to get under there to find it, it's hidden at first glance). Past on feet to the bottom of the boulder and lurch out to the distant rail. Match the rail on the low face of the boulder and work up to establish on flakes. Launch to the key crimp edge/flake. Make another dynamic move or two to the holds at the top to begin the topout sequence.

-Note: The pedestal/wall/block under the boulder is considered off for this boulder problem. There are "good" feet on the roof that make the move out possible. Sorry for any confusion. Same goes for "Lifestyles".

Location 

A.V.P Boulder.
This is the first and most prominent boulder on the hill top at this area. the problem is on the "back" of the A.V.P Boulder (the front is the long, overhanging "nose" of the boulder) and the line goes up the middle of the overhang. sit start.

Protection 

crash pads


Comments on Parlier's Problem Add Comment
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By brien.lewis
Apr 29, 2012

Does the beta involve the half pad crimp/pocket about eye level out to the right? Or from the left hand flake after the matched rail, do you make a dynamic move with your right to the good crimp/flake directly above you?
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Apr 29, 2012

I made a dynamic move for sure, that just feels better to me, however I know several people who have been or have almost been successful going static. Itís really up to you and what you feel more comfortable doing.
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Apr 29, 2012

That crimp is so good that if you nail the dyno you just stick like glue...
By brien.lewis
Apr 29, 2012

Thanks. I was adding a move by going out right to the half pad crimp, then trying to move to the "good crimp" with my left. Almost got it that way. The dynamic move seems much more direct. I don't know why I didn't realize I could do that. Next time for sure!
By Aaron James Parlier
Administrator
From: Boone, NC / Grayson, VA
Apr 29, 2012

yeah the "Good crimp" fits better in quotations for sure. I know the half pad your talking about too, it seems logical to go to that one, but I ended up hucking to the high one and it felt a little better. Good luck man, and be sure to post when you send!

Iíll be working out there and living in the little cabin across from the Contact Station all summer. Stop by and say hello if you up anytime, Ill be looking to session in the afternoons!
By David Barbour
From: Longmont, CO
Oct 14, 2012

I did it with the pocket...the deadpoint to that crimp looked way hard! Great problem, stays fun all the way up through the topout.

edit: Just heard the lower block is off, dang! Solid 8 for sure in that case.