Parley's Canyon is not as pleasant or extensive as Little or Big Cottonwood Canyon, but there is a bit of decent climbing if you don't mind the roar of the interstate.
Getting There
Parleys is the canyon that I-80 uses to reach Park City. Decent crags are widely scattered and use different approaches.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Parley's Canyon:
The eastern most bolted line, Astroprojection is an edging dream or nightmare depending on your ability. It starts a little slabby, but beyond that there is nothing easy about it. Getting to the overhang is thin and tough on the fingers. Popping the overhang is a decision making process. Do you utilize the right or left crack, layback or jam? Once the roof is cleared, the climbing gets harder (imagine that). Stay off that left arete (no really!!), and edge it on up. There are beautiful ed...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Parleys has a surprising number of good climbs in a small area. I prefered the Iron Curtain wall, with a variety of routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11. You have your choice of 40-110 foot routes. Thin crimps and friction feet are the order of the day, although a few of the routes (Up in a Flash, Gotta be Tall, Out of Touch) are quasi jug-hauls. Generally speaking, the first bolts are pretty high, especially Up in a Flash. And some would consider the routes a bit run out, with big whippers possible.Almost all of the routes have spinner bolts. This may paint a bleak picture, particularly with canyon winds and traffic noise to add to the (lack of) ambience. But those who persevere will be rewarded with suprisingly good, high quality climbing. This crag is worth at least one solid, long day per season.
A number of these routes would be three stars if not for the location. The highway is annoying and the descent to the base is heinous. Other than that, the climbing is great.
I think this area is great when its not too crowded. People complain about the traffic and highway, but that makes it a great urban climbing scene. Its an area you can knock out a climb over lunch.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Aug 26, 2006
I respectfully disagree with Mr. Pierce. Although many of the trails (chutes) leading to the base of the climbs are "heinous", there are alternatives. There is an easy trail that branches off of the service road after passing the shack that leads to the top of the Riptide Wall. Even easier, you can rappel from the anchors atop both Iron Curtain Wall and Riptide Wall!
WARNING -- Criminal Activity at the parking lot of this crag
I was parked in the parking lot of this crag on 9/23/07 (northern terminus of Wasatch Blvd.) when my car was broken into. The driver's side window was smashed, along with that of another car next to mine.
We encountered a shady-looking character at the top of the crag (Iron Curtain wall) with a hammer and chisel-like device. About 25-30 years old, male, short brown hair, 6 feet or so, claimed he lived in the area (walking distance). Be wary when parking here...
Anthony, I agree with you, those crags could use some attention. One way to get this on the radar of the ASCA/SLCA for bolt replacement is to post this exact information in the forum found here:
A group of friends and myself were climbing at Parleys canyon today, my friends car and the car next to ours were broken into. Something to be aware of. Whoever did it was moving quick and knew just what they were doing. This seems to happen disturbingly often, A reminder that it is best to leave your car empty while climbing anywhere in the wasatch front and you may consider leaving your windows open. I have heard a few stories of windows broken when the door wasn't even locked and nothing was in the vehicle.
WHAT: Environmental Stewardship Volunteer Day! Lower Parley’s Access Trail Every hour of time you donate to a crag helps show land managers that climbers are responsible stewards. Grab some friends and a pair of work gloves and spend a day giving back to the sport you love! The SLCA (your local non-profit climbing organization) hopes to see you there!
WHEN: May 19th, 2012 / 8:30pm-2:30pm
WHERE: Meet at the lower Parley’s Canyon Crag in the parking lot (Take the 3300 South Exit from I-215, and turn east. Continue through the light at Wasatch Blvd, and then bear left at the first intersection. There is a parking area at the end of the road.)
DETAILS: PRE-REGISTRATION is required to volunteer. Please SIGN UP on the volunteer sign-up sheet (www.saltlakeclimbers.org) to guarantee your lunch donated by Whole Foods. Participants are required to wear appropriate shoes (no open toed shoes) and long pants. NO DOGS. NO ALCOHOL. Bring plenty of water, snacks, and sunscreen.
The SLCA is partnering with the Access Fund, Salt Lake County and Mountain Trails Foundation for this project.
Only with the support and involvement of the local climbing community can the SLCA fulfill our mission to promote climbing opportunities, preserve local access, and encourage stewardship of the environment.
Please become a member today and help us continue our important work. To become a member, visit us at: www.saltlakeclimbers.org/membership. Annual membership fee is $25.00. The SLCA is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization and your donation is tax deductible.
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