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Parley's Canyon

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Bungalow, The 
Iron Curtain Wall 
Pharaoh's Glen 
Pharaoh's Hat 
Riptide Wall 
Ubud Wall 

Parley's Canyon 


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Location: 40.7118, -111.79 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 60,036
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004
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Sunset from Parley's Riptide wall.

Description 

Parley's Canyon is not as pleasant or extensive as Little or Big Cottonwood Canyon, but there is a bit of decent climbing if you don't mind the roar of the interstate.


Getting There 

Parleys is the canyon that I-80 uses to reach Park City. Decent crags are widely scattered and use different approaches.


38 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',8],['5.9',10],['5.10',9],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Parley's Canyon:
Cat In The Hat   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   Pharaoh's Hat
Up In a Flash   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Iron Curtain Wall
Riptide   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Riptide Wall
Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Iron Curtain Wall
Out of Touch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Iron Curtain Wall
Edge of the Sea   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Riptide Wall
Iron Curtain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Iron Curtain Wall
Road Rage   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport   The Bungalow
Feeding Frenzy   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Riptide Wall
Perestroika   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Iron Curtain Wall
Crosscurrent   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Riptide Wall
One With the Rock   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Iron Curtain Wall
Astroprojection   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Riptide Wall
Browse More Classics in Parley's Canyon

Featured Route For Parley's Canyon
Setting up a top rope.  We used directionals for Astroprojection on the face and a straight rope for Dirty Rotten Horror along the corner.

Astroprojection 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Riptide Wall
The eastern most bolted line, Astroprojection is an edging dream or nightmare depending on your ability. It starts a little slabby, but beyond that there is nothing easy about it. Getting to the overhang is thin and tough on the fingers. Popping the overhang is a decision making process. Do you utilize the right or left crack, layback or jam? Once the roof is cleared, the climbing gets harder (imagine that). Stay off that left arete (no really!!), and edge it on up. There are bea...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Parley's Canyon
Photos of Parley's Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
The parking lot.  Head toward the power lines to reach the climbing areas.
BETA PHOTO: The parking lot. Head toward the power lines to r...
The cell tower is the most important landmark.  Go left to reach the Iron Curtain area, and go right to reach the Riptide Wall and The Bungalow.
BETA PHOTO: The cell tower is the most important landmark. Go...
Comments on Parley's Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Lee Gitlin
Jul 10, 2004

Parleys has a surprising number of good climbs in a small area. I prefered the Iron Curtain wall, with a variety of routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.11. You have your choice of 40-110 foot routes. Thin crimps and friction feet are the order of the day, although a few of the routes (Up in a Flash, Gotta be Tall, Out of Touch) are quasi jug-hauls. Generally speaking, the first bolts are pretty high, especially Up in a Flash. And some would consider the routes a bit run out, with big whippers possible.Almost all of the routes have spinner bolts. This may paint a bleak picture, particularly with canyon winds and traffic noise to add to the (lack of) ambience. But those who persevere will be rewarded with suprisingly good, high quality climbing. This crag is worth at least one solid, long day per season.

By vincent pierce
Oct 5, 2004

A number of these routes would be three stars if not for the location. The highway is annoying and the descent to the base is heinous. Other than that, the climbing is great.

By Dalton
Apr 4, 2005

I think this area is great when its not too crowded. People complain about the traffic and highway, but that makes it a great urban climbing scene. Its an area you can knock out a climb over lunch.

By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 26, 2006

I respectfully disagree with Mr. Pierce. Although many of the trails (chutes) leading to the base of the climbs are "heinous", there are alternatives. There is an easy trail that branches off of the service road after passing the shack that leads to the top of the Riptide Wall. Even easier, you can rappel from the anchors atop both Iron Curtain Wall and Riptide Wall!

By Alec
Sep 23, 2007

WARNING -- Criminal Activity at the parking lot of this crag

I was parked in the parking lot of this crag on 9/23/07 (northern terminus of Wasatch Blvd.) when my car was broken into. The driver's side window was smashed, along with that of another car next to mine.

We encountered a shady-looking character at the top of the crag (Iron Curtain wall) with a hammer and chisel-like device. About 25-30 years old, male, short brown hair, 6 feet or so, claimed he lived in the area (walking distance). Be wary when parking here...

By AnthonyJ
From: Salt Lake City UT
Sep 21, 2009

Many of the bolts on the riptide wall should be replaced. If anybody feels up to the task I would happily donate cash for some of the hardware.

By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 21, 2009

Anthony, I agree with you, those crags could use some attention. One way to get this on the radar of the ASCA/SLCA for bolt replacement is to post this exact information in the forum found here:

www.saltlakeclimbers.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=3

A donation to the ASCA with a message about the $ being earmarked for Parleys might also help, no guarantees though.

safeclimbing.org

By mikewhite
Oct 22, 2009

I will try to get to it this weekend.

Thanks for the heads up.

By Timmy Fearn
Oct 2, 2011

A group of friends and myself were climbing at Parleys canyon today, my friends car and the car next to ours were broken into. Something to be aware of. Whoever did it was moving quick and knew just what they were doing. This seems to happen disturbingly often, A reminder that it is best to leave your car empty while climbing anywhere in the wasatch front and you may consider leaving your windows open. I have heard a few stories of windows broken when the door wasn't even locked and nothing was in the vehicle.

By J Geisler
May 11, 2012

WHAT: Environmental Stewardship Volunteer Day!
Lower Parley’s Access Trail
Every hour of time you donate to a crag helps show land managers that climbers are responsible stewards. Grab some friends and a pair of work gloves and spend a day giving back to the sport you love! The SLCA (your local non-profit climbing organization) hopes to see you there!

WHEN: May 19th, 2012 / 8:30pm-2:30pm

WHERE: Meet at the lower Parley’s Canyon Crag in the parking lot (Take the 3300 South Exit from I-215, and turn east. Continue through the light at Wasatch Blvd, and then bear left at the first intersection. There is a parking area at the end of the road.)

DETAILS: PRE-REGISTRATION is required to volunteer. Please SIGN UP on the volunteer sign-up sheet (www.saltlakeclimbers.org) to guarantee your lunch donated by Whole Foods. Participants are required to wear appropriate shoes (no open toed shoes) and long pants. NO DOGS. NO ALCOHOL. Bring plenty of water, snacks, and sunscreen.

The SLCA is partnering with the Access Fund, Salt Lake County and Mountain Trails Foundation for this project.

Only with the support and involvement of the local climbing community can the SLCA fulfill our mission to promote climbing opportunities, preserve local access, and encourage stewardship of the environment.

Please become a member today and help us continue our important work. To become a member, visit us at: www.saltlakeclimbers.org/membership. Annual membership fee is $25.00. The SLCA is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization and your donation is tax deductible.