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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11b [details]|
|FA: ||P. Kingsbury, D. Lombordozzi, J. Kilroy, C. Brown Sept 29, 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||TomKingsbury on Oct 12, 2007|
Above the thin start, but still below the crux. (t...
|Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>|
Starts by climbing a thin slab and crack that leads to the obvious roof. Pull the roof, and follow the thin crack above to a nut anchor. 130' (no go on the bolt permit) although run-out during the lower and easier slab (5.9ish), the crux is well protected with small and offset cams
the crack between 'spank the monkey' and 'blotter is my spotter', with a roof about 100' of the deck.
lots of finger sized cams (yellow), rps, and some hybrid aliens. (lemon-lime for the crux)
|Comments on Park Politics
Feb 11, 2008
It is possible to toprope this route by climbing 'Spank the Monkey' (5.10d), which is one crack system to the right. 2 ropes needed.
|By Trevor Bowman|
From: Sheridan, WY
Jun 16, 2008
Nice work Pat! This thing would be a spicy lead, and is a fun TR after climbing Spank the Monkey. Delicate, insecure, flared stuff similar in flavor to Deadpoint.