Paris Girl  5.13a R

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.13a/b [details] FA:  Christian Griffith 80s Fixed Hardware:  5 Lead Bolts [details] Season:  Crisp temps Submitted By:  Steve Levin on Jan 1, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Paris Girl defines the early 1980s approach to bolting in Eldo: enough to keep you from decking, and no more (although if you blow a clip on this one...). It is an excellent and difficult face climb with significant whipper potential. The scene of much controversy after it was put up (it was the first Eldo climb protected exclusively by rap-placed bolts), the recent vandalism of several hangers (all now replaced) suggests it is still a flashpoint in the tedious Boulder "bolt wars".

PG takes the obvious bolted line on the steep and blank wall right of Disappearing Act, just beyond Darkness 'til Dawn. Take a deep breath, then punch it on unprotected and difficult climbing to the first bolt (dangerous). The crux starts here: a series of crimpy moves up and right past the 2nd bolt to a long reach with whipper potential. The holds are crispy, and some rock deterioration has occurred, making the climbing closer to 5.13a then 5.12d...for example, PG is harder than The Sacred and the Profane on Peanuts, rated 12d/13a in the current Eldo guide. After the crux the climbing eases slightly, passing a bulging 5.12 section, then the micro-edge slab above (5.12a at the start) to a big runout on 5.11a climbing and the anchors.

A workable strategy here is to warmup on Disappearing Act, then set a TR (two ropes) to work the route before the redpoint attempt. Extra points for those brave enough to jump on it with no rehearsal. A good edging shoe is helpful. Cool, crisp temperatures also help; excessive amounts of coffee prior to your redpoint attempt won't.

2 ropes to rappel!

Protection 

QDs only.