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 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
Bihedral 
Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
Dan's Line 
Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

Pariah 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dan Hare and Pat Adams, 1994.
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 26, 2007
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Description 

This route climbs the overhanging arete on the right side of the upper headwall of the Bihedral. I did not climb this route, but watched Bret Ruckman and his partner Marco climb it, and talked with them about the climb afterward. This description is based on how they did the route.

P1: Climb the first pitch of Bihedral Arete and belay.

P2: Start up the last pitch of Flags of Our Fathers, and break right after the third bolt. Go across the slab to the arete on the right side of the upper headwall. Pariah starts here. Work up the arete past eight bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with hangers but no lowering rings. Bret and Marco left carabiners on the hangers. Lower back to the belay on Bihedral Arete.

The route has not been climbed very much, and has lots of lichen, making it more difficult. Bret said the route felt harder than 12b (the guidebook rating).


Location 

On the arete on the right side of the upper headwall on the Bihedral.


Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with no lowering rings. Carabiners in place to lower as of 3/25/07.

Bring additional gear (5 QDs, red Alien, small wire) for the section on Flags of Our Fathers.

The first pitch of Bihedral Arete has 7 bolts which can be supplemented by a few small-to-medium cams and wired nuts.



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