Parental Guidance  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Doc Bayne and Mark Lassiter, 1992 Season:  any when open for peregrines Submitted By:  andjoely on Oct 8, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Closed MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013 All climbing between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are closed due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1: Climb 1st pitch of OR then walk right 200 feet to triple growth tree.
P2: (5.8) Climb straight up face to a 2 bolt anchor below a bulge (150 feet) P3: (5.8) Pull the bulge and continue up face to a belay at a bolt and gear (140 feet). P4: (5.12a) Climb up through a slightly less than vertical band of thin white rock past 3 bolts, then continue up to a gear belay in a horizontal (120 feet) P5: (5.11a) Climb up to a ledge with a bolt where the wall steepens and continue up and left past gear to a belay at a bolt and gear. (80 feet) P6: (5.11c PG13) Climb up and right past a bolt to a horizontal, then traverse right and climb past another bolt to a belay at a horizontal. P7: (5.8) Climb up and left on cool white crystal covered rock past one bolt to the top

Location 

200 feet right of top of 1st pitch of the OR

Protection 

standard rack to #3 camalot, perhaps double up on a couple sizes. Most of the key bolts are 10mm self drives and seemed to be in good condition, but a couple of the 8mm self drive bolts could probably use replacement sometime soon.