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Southeast Face
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Parental Guidance 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doc Bayne and Mark Lassiter, 1992
Season: any when open for peregrines
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: andjoely on Oct 8, 2010

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Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1: Climb 1st pitch of OR then walk right 200 feet to triple growth tree.
P2: (5.8) Climb straight up face to a 2 bolt anchor below a bulge (150 feet) P3: (5.8) Pull the bulge and continue up face to a belay at a bolt and gear (140 feet). P4: (5.12a) Climb up through a slightly less than vertical band of thin white rock past 3 bolts, then continue up to a gear belay in a horizontal (120 feet) P5: (5.11a) Climb up to a ledge with a bolt where the wall steepens and continue up and left past gear to a belay at a bolt and gear. (80 feet) P6: (5.11c PG13) Climb up and right past a bolt to a horizontal, then traverse right and climb past another bolt to a belay at a horizontal. P7: (5.8) Climb up and left on cool white crystal covered rock past one bolt to the top


200 feet right of top of 1st pitch of the OR


standard rack to #3 camalot, perhaps double up on a couple sizes. Most of the key bolts are 10mm self drives and seemed to be in good condition, but a couple of the 8mm self drive bolts could probably use replacement sometime soon.

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