Parental Guidance 5.10 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Mike Tupper & Greg Mayer - 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on May 10, 2007 |
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P1 of Parental Guidance...
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Description Parental Guidance is one of the best single pitches I've done at Red Rocks. It takes a wandering path through a low roof and up a steep face to an extremely steep "Wheat Thin" style flake up the headwall. A final, wild step-across move accesses the anchor atop the first pitch of Lethal Weapon.
Begin the climb on the left side of the Dark Shadows wall about 40 feet right of the huge right-facing corner, atop a small pillar and below a low roof. 5.10 moves, protected by a green Alien in suspect rock, lead up to the low roof and a bolt just over the lip. Stick clipping this bolt might be the better part of valor. Once over the roof continue up steep, thin climbing past three more bolts to a good rest ledge and good natural pro. Step up and left into the crack system which quickly turns into a flake. Halfway up this clip a final bolt (the flake is easily protectable but very fragile and a fall onto gear could conceivably rip it form the wall) and punch it high on the flake until exiting left via providential face holds.
This climb is well-named.
Protection Draws and a bunch of small cams (nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot). Wires, no brass needed. One rope gets you down.
The suspect hardware on this climb was replaced by the ASCA in May, 2007. Previously this climb was equipped with Petzl self-drills which are only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long!
Lots of good gear on this route
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View of almost the entire line
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Sweet lieback at the top
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| Comments on Parental Guidance |
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By lisastern513
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2012
| This was a really good route that seemed more like PG-13 once you clip the first bolt. Getting up to the first bolt felt 10a-ish and it seemed much easier coming in from the left and avoiding that green Alien placement all together. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2013
rating: 5.10
| Stick clip first bolt and its not runnout. Clean thin moves on small holds (bolted) to great gear. The lower flake seems pretty bomber and likely would hold short fall on gear. The upper flake has a nice bolt to protect it so needs no gear. Felt safer than most of the other routes in this grade on the wall. |
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10 PG13
| One of the best 5.10 pitches I've done at Red Rocks! If you're sneaky you can protect the 10a moves to the first bolt. From the pillar, step up just a foot or two using a bomber incut left hand and plug a small cam (0.3 C4) behind a flake to your left that is more solid than it looks. Not quite bomber, but you only need this piece to protect one move up and to the right, where you can plug one or two small cams (C3's) under the small roof before you're fully committed to the roof (i.e. you can still back off easily if you get spooked). Once you've got those cams under the roof you're good to go - make another move right, grab the thin, fragile crimper below the roof, clip the bolt and go. Once you've clipped the first bolt, the rest of the route is very well protected. |
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