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Paranoia 

WI4-5

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus: WI4-5 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 694
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 25, 2006
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Simon Edwards topping out. A bit hard to get good...

Description 

This is a fun ice swath in the area uphill from the upper bridge. It lies probably 100 yards uphill from the upper bridge in a corner-like area just downhill from Duncan's Delight (the 2nd arete/point uphill from the upper bridge). Over the years, this has formed anywhere from a fun, thin, icy corner with mixed climbing to a big continuum of ice from Duncan's to Icy Arete. There can be a small sloping stance at the base. It can be toproped or lead.

Waves of ice that are occasionally vertical allow you to weave your line to go at WI4 to 5. A steep section low can get your attention. There can be 2-3 no hands, cave rests for the weary.

A few notes. Beware on rapping in for a TR from below or a lead since there is open water below to drench your cords. Generally the ice is good here but the way Duncan's Delight is sprayed can lead to funky chandeliered ice the further left you go here. Also, there is a cool ice cave that can form up about 3/4 the way up. Finally, ice tends to funnel/pummel down here to its base from climbers on Icy Arete (to the right) to Duncan's Delight (to the left).

There is a cool rock spire below this climb that does attract your wandering eye.


Protection 

To TR, use big trees or ice screws. To lead, ice screws are usually enough unless it's in thin conditions, then rock gear can be helpful.


Location 

It lies probably 100 yards uphill from the upper bridge in an obvious, corner-like area just downhill from Duncan's Delight. There are some large trees to anchor above this route.



Photos of Paranoia Slideshow Add Photo
Gordo Bro on a variation to the right of gully.  Might be Icy Arete? 2/06.
Gordo Bro on a variation to the right of gully. M...
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