Mountain Project: Climbing Wasatch Range

On the left side of the Kermit's Wall area is a long, thin water streak. The route follows the lower part of this streak, shifts right, then crosses back left to exit via a crack under a large block.

(The route that continues directly up the streak is Koyaanisqaatsi, a .12c balance-fest which I have yet to contemplate.)

Bring both your edging shoes and your lead head, as the second clip is serious.

Aesthetic, stimulating, and fun to the finish! Combine this with Mind Blow for a two-of-a-kind session of crystal dancing.

Comments on Paranoia Streak

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By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.10c

super good line. upper portion has great moves. first part aint to bad
a fall at the crux could be bad.

By tenesmus
Apr 24, 2006

You can walk over and TR this from Touch Up. You can also reach Beam Me Up Scotty (good luck!) from this ledge system and then rap back down Paranoia Streak.

By steve santora
Oct 15, 2006
rating: 5.10c R

Bill Cramer put this up in 82. Bill is about 6'3', I'm 5'7"/ getting past the runout beginning is not to bad (keep it together) but getting past the buldge is hard 10-c/d. 6 or 8" of reach would definely help. One of the best routes in the canyon. Cheers

By BCramer
From: Prescott
Dec 8, 2006

Hey Steve, How are you doing man? I see my reputation exceeds me. Do I really look that tall? I'm actually 6'0". Hank and I had fun on this one! I remember somewhere above the roof leading off some opposed sky hooks weighted with some 'biners to keep them in place. I think it was just before the cut back left. What youthful hubris! I heard there's a bolt there now. Probably a good thing too, almost no one carries skyhooks on their standard rack anymore.

By Drew Bedford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 19, 2008

Hey Bill, the bolt is mine. I decided there was too much good climbing in that black streak and so I bolted the continuation. Sorry if I perverted the boldness. A good variation is to continue up the streak and then exit left to the Paranoia belay before the 12c (?!) crux.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Dec 19, 2008

Really kept my attention! I really liked the moves over the first roof/bulge. The cruxy part is really neat.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 22, 2009

Consider a helmet on this one. A friend split his in half falling off the crux! Great route though - let me know if you need a belay on it :)

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.10c R

I agree with the helmet. I have climbed this many times and have fallen from 3 distinct cruxes over the years. Once I hit quite hard and then bounced onto my head/helmet.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 16, 2011
rating: 5.10c R

Exceptional route. Bottom slab is runout and fun. Clip the 2 bolt intermediate anchor and mantle the huge chickenhead(crux). I saw 4 people all do it differently. Falling here would be ankle shattering. The middle section, again runout, is really easy and fun(not slabby) and then the upper face is a treat with good pro and tiny positive edges. The crack ending is a welcome relief. To toprope this testpiece climb "touch up" and traverse the ledges west w/ a couple 4th class moves to a set of rap bolts. Rap 30 feet down to the top of Paranoia Streak and its two bolt anchor. Toproping this climb requires a 70m rope. No pins on this route anymore, 6 bolts plus a couple cams for the top crack.

Anybody tried to sling the chickenhead at the crux? Seems like it would just pull off, but might give you some psych help.

Paranoia Streak

5.10c R

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