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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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7 year itch T,S 
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Pandemonium T 
Paralysis T 
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Varsity T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
Page Views: 1,592
Submitted By: jmeizis on May 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Peter Whitmore casually strolling up.

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This climb is past Bloody Mary at the far northern end of the cliff. It follows a right leaning ramp/crack system and then traverses right for a couple hundred feet with a very heady third pitch. One could rap down from the second or third pitch without leaving gear.

    The first pitch starts at the top of a large block which can be approached from tne north side with some third class. It follows the right leaning ramp/crack system to the overhanging roof that caps this section of the face. From here you traverse right for a pitch to an alcove. Another traversing pitch takes you underneath an airy roof to a good ledge. From here follow the overhanging crack. Although improbable it is not as hard as it looks. Do not try the shallower dihedral up and right. It's not anywhere in the 5.8 range.


    A set of nuts and cams would get one through this easily. There are some fixed pins at the second and third pitch anchors. No anchors at the top.

    Photos of Paralysis Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Paralysis 5.8 (II)
    BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Paralysis 5.8 (II)
    Rock Climbing Photo: Paralysis P1
    Paralysis P1
    Rock Climbing Photo: Most of the way across the P2 traverse, just befor...
    BETA PHOTO: Most of the way across the P2 traverse, just befor...

    Comments on Paralysis Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Jun 20, 2011

    A good description for pitches 4-5 and the descent is lacking.

    P4 (5.8 PG): From the stacked blocks with the fixed anchor, move left onto blocks below a bulge (Pro). Pull through the bulge on secure holds then trend up and right through easy unprotected terrain to a crack that leads to the hanging off-width with a few chockstones in it. Up the off-width (#5 and #4 C4s helpful) which transitions into a kind of right-facing corner and make an unpleasant finish by punching through vegetation to a tree ledge. Be mindful that many of the trees on the ledge are dead.

    P5 (5.7 G): Above are two opposing corners and a vegetated face between them. This pitch climbs better than it looks. climb the face into the left-corner (right-facing) and climb to the top.

    Descent: There is a fixed anchor at the top of the 4th pitch. I think it would require rappelling through the tree ledge though, which is probably not advisable for the rope pull. Instead, walk climber's right for maybe 100 yards looking for an obvious large oak tree with a "natural" colored fixed anchor 12 feet up. Alternately, you can walk another 75 feet climber's right to find another fixed anchor. Both anchors lead to independent rappel lines that require two double-rope rappels to the ground.
    By Daniel Israel
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Aug 26, 2014

    my partner and i got stuck rappeling down— with a standard rope we had about 5 metres left (first pitch)

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