|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||jmeizis on May 31, 2009|
|Comments on Paralysis||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jun 20, 2011
A good description for pitches 4-5 and the descent is lacking.
P4 (5.8 PG): From the stacked blocks with the fixed anchor, move left onto blocks below a bulge (Pro). Pull through the bulge on secure holds then trend up and right through easy unprotected terrain to a crack that leads to the hanging off-width with a few chockstones in it. Up the off-width (#5 and #4 C4s helpful) which transitions into a kind of right-facing corner and make an unpleasant finish by punching through vegetation to a tree ledge. Be mindful that many of the trees on the ledge are dead.
P5 (5.7 G): Above are two opposing corners and a vegetated face between them. This pitch climbs better than it looks. climb the face into the left-corner (right-facing) and climb to the top.
Descent: There is a fixed anchor at the top of the 5th pitch. I think it would require rappelling through the tree ledge though, which is probably not advisable for the rope pull. Instead, walk climber's right for maybe 100 yards looking for an obvious large oak tree with a "natural" colored fixed anchor 12 feet up. Alternately, you can walk another 75 feet climber's right to find another fixed anchor. Both anchors lead to independent rappel lines that require two double-rope rappels to the ground.
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 26, 2014
|my partner and i got stuck rappeling down with a standard rope we had about 5 metres left (first pitch)|