5.10 A4 R
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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade V|
|Consensus: ||5.10 A4 [details]|
|FA: ||Noel Childs, Kirk Miller, Ken Trout, 1986ish|
|Submitted By: ||Ken Trout on Jul 13, 2008|
BETA PHOTO: Has anyone else done this?
Zoom in on the picture of my old 1989 Rock & Ice topo.
This route is the center of interest for the Wall Climber. Bill Forrest, of Painted-Wall-without-bolts fame, told me he'd tried the Parallel Universe line. The route begins with two potentially classic corners. The problem is that the first corner is never dry. I think Noel freed the second, which is usually dry, 5.11+? Above the highest bailout gear, we definitly drilled a few holes on this route. Check the topo/image for beta.
A rare chance to bring the RURPs, mashies, and hooks. The first corners take smaller stuff like stopper and aliens. Lots of Camalots for the long, leftward, wet-flake traverse into space. Then all the thin aid stuff gets used for the blank, white bulge. The bulge ends happily on an excellent ledge. Noel's Chimney, 5.10, has nice rock and might be better protected now with large Camalots.
I really have not a clue what the modern aid rating for the third pitch might be. Noel provided the most humorous and exhilarating moments when he jumared pitch three as the third-man. He went for broke and jumped off the ledge, instead of lowering out. The resulting pendulum/jumar is completely free hanging until the belay is reached (bomber 1/4" anchors on a foothold ledge).
If you're short on money for gas to the Valley, then this route might help ease the pain.