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BETA PHOTO: The P3 flake-crack being led by Ross Mailloux of S...
A wonderful long moderate that tops out on the Chief with a couple spectacular pitches. You can do this route in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. Walk off.
P1: Pass a bolt, and head either straight up (5.10c) or up and slightly left (5.9). Pass a rap station and head onto easier ground to a station on a flatish section (about 50m).
P2: Head up and right of the station, go through a 5.6 off-width/chimney (good pro), go up, do a 10a move off a short, right-angled crack, and go up cracks and blocks and finally hard right for 55m. 5.10a
Walk up and left, then look back and right for a beautiful left-facing flake crack (see beta photo). Belay at the bottom of this off two bolts (3rd class).
P3: MONEY! Climb the super awesome flake-crack (beta photo), then aid the bolts (5.10b) or free (5.12a) to more crack and a station.
P4: Up the ramp into the off-width. 2 bolts and good feet keep things mellow. 5.10b
P5: MONEY! Up and right to a crack and up to a station. 5.10b.
Walk up the stairs to the base of what looks like a 3-sided elevator shaft.
P6: Head more or less straight up, into the cave, stem the cool finger crack in cave, step up to then hard right past a rap station, and belay below a big off-width/chimney. 5.9 IMHO
P7: Do a 10A move right into the corner beside the off-width. Up to a tree, right into a V-slot (bolt), and straight up (10c) or up and right (5.8) to top.
Follow the trail to the backside fo the third summit and down to the Chief parking lot.
Head up the Angel's Crest trail (about 1 km from highway 99 on the south side of the Mamquam Road) which is marked with "AC" signs. When you get to the base of the gully, cross the gully and follow a decent trail to the base of the wall.
Make a sharp right, and go up the first fixed line you see.
Head at first up and right, then up and across left (all with fixed ropes), until you are at a grassy platform. There is a bolt about 8 feet up markign the start of P1
1x #4 Camalot
2x .5-#3 Camalot
a few nuts
a couple of pieces smaller than .3 Camalot
If you want to bail, you will need two ropes. All stations fixed.
By Adrian Lazar
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
p1 5.10c variation was seeping on 9/13, looks fun.
p6 has a tricky few moves past the rap anchor and bolt above it. It makes more sense to stop at the rap anchor, bring your partner up and continue from there. This eases communication and simplifies a possibly ankle busting if not worse situation. The crux by the bolt is thought provoking. This move is a 5.10a/b IMO.
By Alan North
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 26, 2014
One of my favorite Squamish routes. Bottom OK but after the ledge there are 4 pitches of high quality sustained 5.10 climbing.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Did this up to Astro yesterday. We knew the upper pitches are supposed to be better, but we were so discouraged by the first four pitches that we bailed and did the NN Arete. This is coming from someone that doesn't mind a new route with some adventure. This start feels like a unfinished project, still needing a lot of cleaning.Maybe we were just tired and intimidated by the Wide pitches above. Will have to go back, but maybe by Astro ledge.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 29, 2014
Lower 4 pitches...wear your helmet, especially if others are above. Lots of loose stuff. Not typical Squamish climbing.