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Parallel Passage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 10th September, 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: July-Sept.
Page Views: 1,087
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Sep 15, 2009

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Jay Harrison on the First Ascent of Parallel Passa...

Description 

Climb up to the "tooth" flake, then step up into the twin-crack groove. Follow groove ~40' (crux) until the angle eases, then ascend up left along a black ramp/slab under a beaked overhang and along the same line for ~20' to the obvious crack/flake system breaks through the short, steep wall above, landing you directly below a two-bolt anchor.
Optionally, once you've climbed through the layback and chimney section of the route, do not move left along the beaked overhang. Instead, look for a thin crack leading rightward across the Plumbline block. Follow it right and move up to the fixed anchors of that route.

Location 

Same start as Plumb Line, just below the obvious twin crack system to its left.

Protection 

Small to medium-large cams (C4s to #3, couple of medium C3s)


Photos of Parallel Passage Slideshow Add Photo
Jay Harrison showing us how it's done.
Jay Harrison showing us how it's done.

Comments on Parallel Passage Add Comment
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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I found this deceptively difficult, pretty stiff for a 9.

When the angle eases, you can traverse right and lower from the fixed anchor on Plumb Line (setting you up to TR that route).
By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Mar 10, 2011

has anyone ever done the crack to the right of parallel passage? it looks very appetizing
By losbill
Mar 11, 2011

Check Plumb Line description.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I think this is 5.10. Sustained and harder than it looks, but well protected.
By M. Lane
From: Somerville, NJ
Aug 14, 2014

From the ground this climb didn't look too enticing, but wow, it's a great pitch. Jam, layback, stem, chimney?! I agree that this is stiff for a 5.9, and I think it's more difficult than the Amphitheater Crack. It's strenuous, but the gear is great. If you plan on traversing right to the Plum Line anchors, make sure you don't follow the crack to its end. Look right for an opportunity to traverse.