|Black Arches Wall
Climb up to the "tooth" flake, then step up into the twin-crack groove. Follow groove ~40' (crux) until the angle eases, then ascend up left along a black ramp/slab under a beaked overhang and along the same line for ~20' to the obvious crack/flake system breaks through the short, steep wall above, landing you directly below a two-bolt anchor.
Same start as Plumb Line, just below the obvious twin crack system to its left.
Small to medium-large cams (C4s to #3, couple of medium C3s)
Jay Harrison showing us how it's done.
|By Jim Lawyer|
Oct 1, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I found this deceptively difficult, pretty stiff for a 9.
When the angle eases, you can traverse right and lower from the fixed anchor on Plumb Line (setting you up to TR that route).
|By Jaysen Henderson|
From: White Plains, New York
Mar 10, 2011
has anyone ever done the crack to the right of parallel passage? it looks very appetizing
Mar 11, 2011
Check Plumb Line description.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Nov 11, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
I think this is 5.10. Sustained and harder than it looks, but well protected.
|By M. Lane|
From: Somerville, NJ
Aug 14, 2014
From the ground this climb didn't look too enticing, but wow, it's a great pitch. Jam, layback, stem, chimney?! I agree that this is stiff for a 5.9, and I think it's more difficult than the Amphitheater Crack. It's strenuous, but the gear is great. If you plan on traversing right to the Plum Line anchors, make sure you don't follow the crack to its end. Look right for an opportunity to traverse.