The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Getting there: Follow the trail to the north end of Mickey Mouse wall past the large block, from which Perversion starts. Just past this block is a low-angle left-facing dihedral below the groove between the 'Mouse Ears' which is also the standard rappel route. Climb the dihedral past a tree to a large ledge. The dihedral is 5.5 and looks a bit easier than it is. I would suggest roping up, even if you only place 2 pieces for this section.
P1: From the ledge at the top of the dihedral follow the right of two cracks 6 feet apart. The crack continues through some .7, .8, and .9(+) moves through a bulge and finally to a rest stance. Some of the sections look like they are going to be much harder than 5.9 and may tempt you into the crack on the left. I did not use the crack on the left at all since another party was climbing it, but is certainly looked tempting in some spots and may make a few moves easier. The pitch is about 130+ feet, quite sustained, had some tricky small pro and felt harder than many 5.9s in Eldo and much harder than Perversion. For this reason I give it 9+.
P2: Scramble up to a slab with a finger crack, below a bulge leading to the notch between the 'Mouse Ears' towers. Delicately climb the slab, then power over the bulge on decent but awkward hands. Although we did this as two pitches because of other parties on the wall, I would recommend doing one long pitch. The first pitch is quite long anyway [30 feet].
Rack up to #3.5 Friend. Lots of smaller pieces. I used 6 TCUs and Aliens and would probably have placed a few RPs as well if I'd had them.
This route is a bit confusing because as you say you can make it easier by using the left crack. It felt contrived to me to stick exclusively to the right crack. If you use both cracks and take the easiest line it felt 5.9, and in most places easier.
Combined with the first pitch of [Perversion], this makes a great route. I felt this pitch was more sustained than P1 of [Perversion], but the moves were maybe less technical. Who knows? Good fun and good gear. Thoughtful.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 7, 2005
Very nice middle pitch with interesting cruxes & good pro & good rests. Agree that 1st pitch detracts from the quality, P1 of Perversion is probably better. You can do it only moving out of the crack at the big flake mid pitch & keep it 9. Save a #2 or 2.5 Friend for the last crux on middle pitch. Also, bummed that I left an old style #4 Camalot at/near the base today :(
Stay with the right crack as it is well-protected and fun. Expect a long pitch with good gear, excellent position, good exposure, and thought provoking moves. The gear is good where it needs to be (I placed nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot).