Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Paradise Valley

Select Area...
Allenspur 
Cowen Cirque 
Mile 13 Boulders 
Mill Creek 
Yankee Jim  
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

South Cottonwood Creek to Fox Creek Ranger Station
A ride along and through the creek for hot days. Near Four Corners, Montana
Wheeler Gulch
A challenging climb on a fun trail. Near Bozeman, Montana
Leverich Canyon
Consistent burly climbing for a stellar, freeride downhill Near Bozeman, Montana
Mystic Lake
Some amazing trails with great climbs and descents that takes you out to Mystic Lake. Near Bozeman, Montana
New World Gulch Trail #50
Overall a great trail that takes you up to Mystic Lake. Avoid the middle by using Moonshine Gulch Trail #438 Near Bozeman, Montana
Bangtail Divide - IMBA Epic
Close-to-town access to an intermediate but lengthy ride featuring views of multiple mountain ranges Near Bozeman, Montana
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Paradise Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 45.618, -110.5672 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,200
Administrators: grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 7, 2012
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Yellowstone River flows down the northern end ...

Description 

This beautiful valley of the Yellowstone River provides climbers with a selection of diverse and enjoyable climbing experiences, from clipping bolts at Allenspur to big, hard, granite free climbs on Mount Cowen.

Sandwiched between the Gallatin Range on the west and the Absaroka/Beartooth Range on the east, the season here is as diverse as the climbing. Generally, temps in the valley are a bit milder than the Gallatin Valley, allowing for a slightly longer traditional rock season and even occasional winter days at the low crags of Allenspur. Mill Creek is located further up in the Absaroka/Beartooth mountains and has a more traditional summer season (late May through October). The alpine rock routes of Mount Cowen are subject to the intricacies of mountain weather and snowpack, with July and August beimg best.

Pay camping can be found throughout the valley, with good free options up Mill Creek past the climbing area.

Besides the awesome climbing and backcountry ski opportunities, two of my favorite things about Paradise Valley are soaking in Chico Hot Springs (a few miles south of Mill Creek) and eating at Mark's In and Out in Livingston, both easily combined with a climbing excursion.

Getting There 

I-90 provides the general access point to Paradise Valley from the north, east, and west. Exit at any of the Livingston exits and head south on Highway 89. Refer to specific areas for directions from here.
From the south, it's possible (and recommended if time is available) to enter the valley from the south via Yellowstone National Park. The diversity of scenery is unmatched.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

104 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',42],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',9],['5.10',31],['5.11',11],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',18],['V4-5',7],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',7],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Paradise Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Paradise Valley:
Genghis Tron   V5 6C     Boulder   Yankee Jim : Campground Boulders
Montana's Most Wanted   V7 7A+     Boulder   Yankee Jim : Campground Boulders
Climbing Club Route   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
Blood and Bolts   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
Righteous are the Brave   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Ladyfingers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Quick Tease   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 65'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Josh Was Grounded   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Allenspur : Boundry Crag
Yellowstone Poseidon Adventures   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Dam in the Rain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Beach Break   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Allenspur : Main Crag
Sully's Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 90'   Allenspur : Main Crag
French Connection   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Cutthroats Don't Wear Plaid   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Mill Creek : Ladyfingers Buttress
Flake Fest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Spur Corner   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Thunderbolt and Lightfeet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Mill Creek : Thunderbolt Buttress
Montana Centennial Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1600'   Cowen Cirque
Rancho Deluxe   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Allenspur : 7-11 Crag
Out of the Whole   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Allenspur : Obscurity Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Paradise Valley

Featured Route For Paradise Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for Sully's Route.  2 Bolt anchor at the top....

Sully's Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  MT : Paradise Valley : ... : Main Crag
P1: Climb the obvious bolt line right of "Todos" which surmounts the large overhang. The crux is pulling the lip of the roof. The climb is much easier than it looks due to massive jugs through the overhang. P2: The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left....[more]   Browse More Classics in MT

Photos of Paradise Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emigrant Peak, as seen from the Allenspur approach...
Emigrant Peak, as seen from the Allenspur approach...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset on the road to the Mill Creek crags.
Sunset on the road to the Mill Creek crags.
Rock Climbing Photo: Paradise Valley
Paradise Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Bear attack!
Bear attack!
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset near Mill Creek crags.
Sunset near Mill Creek crags.

Comments on Paradise Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!