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Paradise on the Brazos

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Choppin' Block 
Corner Walls 
Crinoid Cave 
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Paradise On Brazos (sport) 
Patio Wall 
Shuttle Cave 
Stockyards 
Tailgate Party Wall 
Terra Therapy Area 
Three Gray Faces 

Paradise on the Brazos 


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Location: 32.9987, -98.4583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 26,702
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: kovacs69 on Jul 14, 2011
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The Shuttle Cave area, looking up stream.

Description 

This beautiful area, located on a bend of the Brazos River in North Texas, has a selection of over 90 short, bolted routes, with the potential for many more. Bolting began in November of 2002. Some of the routes have loose rock on them, so be careful. There is an overhung cave with the first 5.12 named Columbia, bolted Feb. 1 ,2003. POB is full of several good boulders. Most of the bolted routes now are vertical, and up to 5.12 in difficulty. POB was closed for a few years but has recently re-opened to climbing.

A pdf guide can be found at the following link:
POB Guide


Getting There 

From Mineral Wells Texas: Go West out of town on HWY 180. Just west of town, head North/Northwest on 337, towards Graham. After about 25 miles on this road, and just after you cross the county line, look for the open gate across the highway from a gravel pit. If you get to Graham then you have gone too far. Make sure you stop at the house to pay. The entrance for POB is at the GPS location.


99 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',10],['5.8',9],['5.9',15],['5.10',35],['5.11',24],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Paradise on the Brazos:
Welcome To Paradise   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 20'   Corner Walls
The Monkey Lives Here   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   Stockyards
Hannah's Route   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 35'   Three Gray Faces
Rock-About   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 35'   Three Gray Faces
Sweet Action   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 30'   Corner Walls
Brazos Bros   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport   Three Gray Faces
Alamo Arete   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Stockyards
Browse More Classics in Paradise on the Brazos

Featured Route For Paradise on the Brazos
Mario Stanley on Columbia.

Columbia 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Shuttle Cave
From the guidebook:Climb the route on the left side of the cave (denoted in fixed draws). This POB classic was named in honor of the space shuttle Columbia, which broke apart in blue skies over the crag (north Texas) on January 1st, 2003....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Photos of Paradise on the Brazos Slideshow Add Photo
Sunset at Paradise On the Brazos in Jan 2003
Sunset at Paradise On the Brazos in Jan 2003
Comments on Paradise on the Brazos Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zach Wahrer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 24, 2011

Be aware that it is currently $10 per person, per day for climbing at POB.

By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
Aug 31, 2011

There is a box in front of the house that holds waivers and envelopes to put money in. There is a slot on the back of the box in which to place the envelopes. A sign-in sheet is located next to the box.

It's $6 a night to camp, which is helpful for beating the heat.

When Filibuster Creek is dry, the creek bed reflects the heat up and it gets pretty toasty in the shade.

By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
Sep 5, 2011

I have been adding info for the climbs directly from the guidebook, but I will need to go back and re-write the entries for the climbs. A friend of Jimmy's had given me tacit approval to pull the beta from the guidebook but there could be some potential legal issues to do so even if I cite the original work. So I will be going back and updating the climbs with my own words.

By wankel7
From: Indiana
Sep 19, 2011

Facebook page for POB is up:
www.facebook.com/climbPOB

By Scott Strong
From: Dallas, TX
May 22, 2012

It seems that some folks feel that $10 is too much to pay for a day of climbing. This continues to be a problem at POB. If you can't afford to pay for climbing or you don't think you should have to pay to use someone's private property, then just don't go to POB. Climbers trespassing will ruin it for everyone. Freddie is watching, he writes down plate numbers and keeps track of who goes in and out. Don't be a moron.

By Tyler Garrett
From: Dallas, TX
Jul 1, 2013

The only hard cave climb anywhere around Dallas... but the owners are absolutely terrible. I went one time and set 5 bouldering problems that were v3 to v7.
It's not worthwhile to camp, just do a day climb and leave. I can't convince any of my climbing friends to go back.
I don't think they let people climb there anymore, I heard someone got hurt.
Austin isn't that far away.

By J. Thornton
Jul 7, 2013

POB is closed to climbing and camping. Check Facebook.

By Ryan A. Ray
From: Keller, TX
Jul 8, 2013

From the Landowners Facebook.....

Paradise on the Brazos will officially close down climbing & tent camping permanently @ the end of today. We have decided to go another direction after 13 years. We have a bunch of people to thank for making climbing happen @ POB. A big thanks to David & Carol Michael for having the vision & putting in the first climbs & a bunch of hard work. Thanks to the late Jimmy Forrester & the late Kirk Holiday for all they did. Thanks to Thomas & Shana Martin, Keith Reed, Mark Pell, Mark Hyde, Ryan Ray, Mark Maddy & James Siros for the website. Thanks to all the people I left out & to the honest climbers. It's been a great 13 years & have made a bunch of friends in the climbing community but the time has come to shut it down. Times change & people change. Please spread the word, don't want anyone to drive out here & have to be turned away. Will put up no trespassing signs & anyone attempting to go back there will be dealt with accordingly. Thanks.

The reason we are closing POB to climbing & tent camping is we have leased our ranch to a large mining Company & they will be mining limestone & it will turn into a large quarry. The Company doesn't want anyone in there because they will be blasting & it will loosen the rock. Hope that answers some questions