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Middle Cathedral Rock
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Unsorted Routes:

Paradise Lost 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ray Jardine, Rik Rieder, 6/72
Page Views: 653
Submitted By: Tony L on May 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Paradise Lost

Description 

A fantastic mix of face and thin cracks. Less strenuous than Stoner's Highway.

Location 

Just left of the DNB.

Protection 

Nuts and cams. I think I used a couple micros down low.


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By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 8, 2014

This a great but underrated route. The runout nature of pitch 2 (pro for which used to consist only of a hammered in stopper) will keep most people from progressing further. I'm sure someone out there knows if that the pro on that pitch has been remedied. Maybe not 4 stars, but definitely 3.5.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jan 8, 2014

What do you mean by "remedied"?
By Tony L
Feb 2, 2014

If by pitch 2, you mean the from the top of the 5.7 crack on the first pitch, you are putting in RPs. If by pitch 2, you mean starting further up from the end traverse, then there are a couple bolts that were added to a route that crossed this line.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Oct 20, 2014

The bashed nut on pitch 2 was replaced with a bolt. A new climb starts on the face to the left of the Pee Pee Pillar, climbs directly up to share the second pitch of Paradise Lost, and then continues directly up where PL traverses right on pitch 3. Some new bolts have been added and also the position of the belay anchors has been changed. If you're looking at the topo for PL in the Reid guide, these two pitches will seem confusing.

For the first pitch, don't stop at the bolted anchor on the left side of Pee Pee Pillar, instead traverse out left onto the face, clip a bolt then climb up to a new 2-bolt anchor. For the second pitch continue up and left past some flakes and small corners (there's at least 1 lead bolt, don't remember if there are more) then past some pitons in a corner to another new 2 bolt belay. Don't stop at that anchor though, traverse straight right for about 40 feet to another 2 bolt anchor under a roof with a mostly-detached flake a couple feet below it. You are now at the top of pitch 3 of Paradise Lost. The Reid topo is very accurate for the rest of the route.

The anchor at the top of pitch 6 and the lead bolt on pitch 7 haven't been replaced and are still 1/4"ers. You can skip the old belay by linking 6 & 7, just make sure you extend your gear on the pitch. From the top of pitch 7 you can either rappel the route, or continue up DNB.
By Tony L
Oct 30, 2014

Just did the route yesterday. It's an outstanding line - better than Central Pillar or the first pitches of the DNB. (I had previously been to the top of 2.) Probably better for someone with experience leading in the valley - tricky to find pro, but safe.

To not get your second killed on the multiple traversing pitches the leader should belay the second on the trailing line as well as the lead. Otherwise there is a big potential swing on pitches 3, 4, and 5.

Pitch 2 protects pretty well. There are a couple bolts and a few heads. Like Bryan said pitch 2 can finish at the belay bolts before or the other bolts after the 40' traverse. I stopped before the traverse. If the rope isn't feeling draggy, then do the traverse. Half way across the 40' traverse you can get in a blue/green offset alien and/or an RP. Be careful of that huge flake. It won't land on you if it goes, but it could squish someone on the ground. Maybe someone will trundle that thing some day when they are 100% sure the bottom is clear (even then it might hit some bolts on the way down).

Pitch 3,4 are great!

Pitch 5 (the .10a traverse pitch): the anchor at the top is 3 sketchy 1/4" and a nut. It might be easier to belay 30' up after the traverse on a ledge (natural anchor). That pitch got really draggy even with extended gear.