This route is one of my personal favorites in the gorge. It's not quite as hard as it looks. Start as for "Paradise City". Clip first bolt from the ledge and climb straight up the main wall past 2 bolts to the overlap/roof. Pull the overlap on an incredible rail and clip the last bolt (4). Crank up into the seam and hang on just a little longer to the easier face above. Move up and traverse right to the same belay as for "Paradise City". P-2 Continue up "Paradise City", or climb the easier large dihedral out right.
Climbs the steep and excellent wall just to the right of "Paradise Alley".
|By Phil York|
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jun 6, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
One of my all-time favorites in the gorge. It keeps throwing all sorts of weird stuff at you the whole time. Take a few long runners for the end of the route traversing to the belay.