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 ADVANCED
Red Devil
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Berserker T 
East Face Right/Red Devil T 
Hell Freezes Over S 
Paradise Lost S 
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 
South Face T 

Paradise Lost 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kyle Lefkoff, Tim Snipes, Strappo Hughes, August 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,833
Submitted By: kyle lefkoff on Jul 28, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The South Face of the Red Devil, at the base of Pa...
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Paradise Lost was approved as a new route by the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder OSMP in the spring of 2006. It climbs the beautiful South Face of the Red Devil, and starts two switchbacks below Hell Freezes Over. The climbing is steep and juggy on solid rock.

Paradise Lost gets direct midday sun, so is most pleasant in spring and fall. Be aware of poison ivy at the base, which is easily avoided.


Location 

Paradise Lost is located above the first switchback on the climbers trail that jogs north just before reaching the Mallory Cave. Use the NCAR parking lot and Mesa Trail access to the Mallory Cave trail for the 45 minute approach.


Protection 

9 bolts to a two bolt ring anchor. Bring a long sling for the third clip. This climb is rigged for a 60 meter rope.



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In search of sunshine.
In search of sunshine.
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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From: Iowa
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A solid 9 with fun moves. This route is a grip of boulder problems hiding in a long sport route.

By Chris Archer
Sep 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Fun climbing and great features, but a fall before bolts 2-6 would be grim!

By George Bracksieck
Jun 15, 2012

The anchor bolt with Fixe hanger and ring is loose. Excellent climb, by the way.

By John Worthen
Oct 2, 2012

I too noticed that one of the anchor bolts felt a bit loose.