Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Red Devil
Select Route:
Berserker T 
East Face Right/Red Devil T 
Hell Freezes Over S 
Paradise Lost S 
So Easy, Even A Caveman Can Do It T 
South Face T 

Paradise Lost 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kyle Lefkoff, Tim Snipes, Strappo Hughes, August 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,330
Submitted By: kyle lefkoff on Jul 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The South Face of the Red Devil, at the base of Pa...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Paradise Lost was approved as a new route by the Flatirons Climbing Council and Boulder OSMP in the spring of 2006. It climbs the beautiful South Face of the Red Devil, and starts two switchbacks below Hell Freezes Over. The climbing is steep and juggy on solid rock.

Paradise Lost gets direct midday sun, so is most pleasant in spring and fall. Be aware of poison ivy at the base, which is easily avoided.


Paradise Lost is located above the first switchback on the climbers trail that jogs north just before reaching the Mallory Cave. Use the NCAR parking lot and Mesa Trail access to the Mallory Cave trail for the 45 minute approach.


9 bolts to a two bolt ring anchor. Bring a long sling for the third clip. This climb is rigged for a 60 meter rope.

Photos of Paradise Lost Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In search of sunshine.
In search of sunshine.

Comments on Paradise Lost Add Comment
Show which comments
By Forestvonsinkafinger
From: Iowa
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A solid 9 with fun moves. This route is a grip of boulder problems hiding in a long sport route.
By Chris Archer
Sep 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Fun climbing and great features, but a fall before bolts 2-6 would be grim!
By George Bracksieck
Jun 15, 2012

The anchor bolt with Fixe hanger and ring is loose. Excellent climb, by the way.
By John Worthen
Oct 2, 2012

I too noticed that one of the anchor bolts felt a bit loose.
By JulianG
Jun 7, 2015

I just did this route today, and it is a fun route.

I have to warn people that the 3rd bolt is bad. The scary part is that you can easily jiggle the bolt in the hole. I did not try to pull it out, but to me it looks like the bolt has been pulled a little out of the rock. A fall before clipping the 4th bolt will be a groundfall. The 4th bolt look good. It is only about 5 or 6 ft higher and easy to clip.

Other than that, enjoy the route ;-)

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!