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Davidson Wall
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Flake, The T 
Jane Fonda Workout T 
Kingfolia T 
Loose Lips T 
Paradise Lost T 
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Three Turkeys T 
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Trapeze T 
Watusi T 

Paradise Lost 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tim Coats and Paul Davidson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 4,797
Submitted By: camhead on Oct 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Paradise Lost. photo by Mat Jacobson.

Description 

Pull some unprotected, bouldery moves from the left to get to a beautiful right-facing fingers dihedral. Flared jams, hard stemming, and a bit of power laybacking are all required on this stout, sustained route. One of the most classic lines at the Forks.

Location 

Just left of Equalizer, and a bit to the right of Loose Lips/Torpedo area.

Protection 

lots of .75 and 1 Friends (.4 and .5 camalots), stoppers, long slings for the tree at the top.


Photos of Paradise Lost Slideshow Add Photo
Mark pulls hard on the layback.
Mark pulls hard on the layback.
Scotty works the layback over the second cruxy bulge.
Scotty works the layback over the second cruxy bul...
5/86
5/86
Visiting climber pulling through main crux on an onsight attempt of Paradise Lost
Visiting climber pulling through main crux on an o...

Comments on Paradise Lost Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 20, 2014
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 27, 2007

It is fairly uprotected to get started, but I don't think the route is PG13, its about as protected as it gets. The pro on the normal start is better then the direct start which I prefer nowadays. The direct start is clean, fun version with three moves but is totally unprotected.

Its also probably one of the top routes at Paradise Forks
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 10, 2007

This pitch has it all: heady start, tough jams, laybacks, stems and a real enduro element. One of the best pitches at PF and maybe in Northern Arizona.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 18, 2009

Come on Rickd, gravity, rattly fingers and a lack of endurance probably had more to do with it than a bloody pinky. That was my downfall yesterday. Even so it was a beautiful failure and was the best climb I got on this weekend.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 19, 2009

It's a pinky ya big weenie. Ha Ha. I should have know it was bad if you mentioned it.
By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 24, 2010

Just climbed this thing today, wow one of my favorite climbs in AZ. Enduro, has it all.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 5, 2012

Awesome route, but I thought it felt hard for the grade. If Davidson's Dihedral is 11+ I don't see how this is just a fraction of a grade harder at 12-.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 25, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

If this climb is PG13 then Jane Fonda and Bach's celebration should be 5.12 R/X. The start is heads up but not PG13!
By Eric Shon
From: Phoenix
Jun 26, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I top roped this the other day and it didn't feel that bad. Certainly not .12a/b, felt more like .11 c.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

You didn't lead it yet you downgrade it and give a pg13?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 1, 2013

Thanks Robbie, you saved me the effort. ^^^^ Love people rating routes on TR not that they can't be accurate but this route gets harder if you are placing gear. Duh.
By fubar
From: Babylon
Jul 2, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

With a TR, a couple of rests, and stepping on gear, this was no more more than 5.10+...

Awesome route. My favorite of the area.
By Paul Davidson
Jul 2, 2013

With hexes and Orange PAs, it felt a bit stiff...

I also suspect if you fell of the start you might then think it has some PG13 to it. Once in the corner there's nothing PG13 about it.

PG,R,X ratings are not meant to be averaged out over the climb like we sometimes do with YDS. But rather to indicate to the leader that there might be something of concern.

Of course, originally it was just rated 12a or maybe 11+. PG13 was something at the movies.
By Eric Shon
From: Phoenix
Jul 10, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

well, I was able to on sight it on my third go, so it felt a little soft for me.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 10, 2013

Do you mean redpoint?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 10, 2013

If you can't onsight it on your second go you really suck!
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 20, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Local troll Casey Niggemyer Just being a Dick!
Eric-Shon

Nice.......