Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sign Crack Area
Select Route:
Hop, Skip, and a Jump S 
Paradigm Shift S 
Sign Crack 
TR Routes TR 

Paradigm Shift 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: [Pat Ackerson]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,124
Submitted By: allen simons on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: View of several climbs from second paved parking i...

Description 

From the paved parking area 1 mile west of the Beige Siphon Tube, hike uphill east to the obvious chimney, (an old Jim Disney route 5.7). Continue north for 60 feet, and turn uphill hiking to the back side of the chimney. 5 bolts. Unclimbed (5.12???) A crucial hold broke off while I was working it and made it to hard for me. Have at it.

Per John Marsella: there is an alternate approach to Paradigm Shift: a steepish gully just down-canyon from the pullout will follow a more direct line to the route.

Protection 

Sport. 5 bolts to a two bolt rap anchor.


Photos of Paradigm Shift Slideshow Add Photo
Paradigm Shift from roadway.
BETA PHOTO: Paradigm Shift from roadway.
Paradigm Shift (from base of route).
BETA PHOTO: Paradigm Shift (from base of route).
Cale working the shift, after climbing we needed t...
Cale working the shift, after climbing we needed t...
Paradigm Shift-bottom blocked by boulder.
BETA PHOTO: Paradigm Shift-bottom blocked by boulder.
Eric attemping a first ascent just in his G Nikes.
Eric attemping a first ascent just in his G Nikes.

Comments on Paradigm Shift Add Comment
Show which comments
By allen simons
Apr 8, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Thanks to Pat Ackerson for climbing this previously unclimbed route recently. A rating of 5.11c or so has been suggested by him. And the name of the route is "Paradigm Shift". Thanks Pat!
By They call me Sam
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Gave it a go with my buddy today and found it to be a bit more difficult than 11c. Wondering if there are any other opinion's or if I just made the route harder than it is by climbing sloppy. Great route though. Nice to get out of the noise of the traffic.
By allen simons
Sep 7, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

SWISS, just a little history. I bolted this line quite a few years ago and it was going to go at hard 5.10, with several moves right off the ground that were hard. While working it, I pulled off a 2 foot by 2 foot flake that was key to getting thru what is now the crux area. When that came off, I worked it and worked it but could not do the 2-3 move piece of the crux. I tried to get several people to give it a go and finally Pat Ackerson did it and called it 11c. I climbed with him a bit this summer, and he said he had climbed it again and now felt it was harder than that, maybe 5.12, which is what I suggested to him when I could not climb it. Perhaps he will share his opinion with you. Allen
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Apr 19, 2010

It's a good route to work, The bolts are in wierd spots, but that has to do with the route originally being a hard 10, now with the flake missing (12a) the route kind of meanders. It's got some great moves. 3 stars
By Cale Farnham
Apr 22, 2010

Definitely a lower 12. Never climbed the route before the hold broke, but making the traverse through the crux a very powerful move! In my opinion, it's a three route! Nice work on this line! If you're around, definitely give this one a go!!