BETA PHOTO: The sweet looking, thin crack about 15 feet right ...
This small crag lies behind Reynold's Hill, along with a collection of other crags like Spelunk Spire and Old Devil's Playground. Two lines grace the crag, the splitter Soft Parade 11c and the thrutchy Parade Rest 10a. Worth the walk, for the views alone.
Begin your approach as for Reynold's Hill. After crossing the creek, head right on a trail that meanders above and along the creek. After passing high ground and returning to near the creek bed, views of Old Devils playground across the creek come at about half a mile down the trail. Your eye can't miss the distinct arch of Muscle and Fitness. Shortly after this section of brushy trail a very faint trail (easy to miss) leads up and left slightly up slope past a small open area, then sparse trees into another rising meadow. Quickly the trail grows distinct. A few hundred yards and you will approach Spelunk Spire, across a meadow on the right. Continue on the trail through some aspen until Parade Rock rises off the trail.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Parade Rock:
This route is right of Parade Rest. It has a gently overhanging, tight hands and rattly fingers crux at the beginning. It eases up to some 5.9 near the top. Metolius rap bolts are located to the right of the crack at the top. This is a classic that doesn't see the crowds. It is worth the hike, since you can combine this, Old Dog's New Trick, and Women's Work for a killer Vedauwoo fingers shredding....[more]Browse More Classics in WY
If you're approaching from End of the Road Rocks, this thing is really easy to find. Follow the trail from the parking area (see EOORR comments for details), branch right at the one obvious fork, then follow the heavily rutted trail for about a quarter or half mile. You'll see this thing on the right, maybe 30 feet off the trail.
By the way, does anybody have any info on the splitter flared-tips crack that's around the corner (to the right) from Soft Parade? It looks like an even more heinous version of Closer to the Sun, or a vertical and slightly more over-hung version of that seam out at Coyote Rocks (Suncatcher?). I couldn't begin to do the moves to get off the ground, but it is beautiful!
That is obviously undone. It is splitter overhanging Z4's or blue Aliens, and the inside of the crack is smooth like Old Dogs New Trick. It used to have a pedestal at the base of it, though that pedestal fell down recently.
I cleaned out a dead bush in the middle of the route and was able to wriggle out a small block of stone that was in the second hand pod near the bottom. Jammer is right, I used a blue Alien to get up to the dead bush. Haven't rapped it to get a good look, and don't even know if it's climable. Could be fun to try.
Squatting Bear, I have mixed feelings about that. It may have extended a possibly cool new route, but if the forest service found out about that they might get pissed. Though they would likely never find out about such a thing on their own, it might be best not to admit to it on a website. That being said, I am just curious what prompted you to push that thing over? If/when it goes, it will be a very nice hard classic. It is one of the nicest undone lines I have seen at Vedauwoo.
Yeah, I checked it out a few years ago and the splitter section felt really hard. Never thought to push over that pedestal at the base, though I seem to remember thinking that it would be a nicer and longer pitch if it wasn't there.