Login with Facebook
Select Route:
(route to left of New Ideal, right of Rainbow Arch) T 
(Stories) 5.7 arete T 
. T 
5.8 Corner T 
Aura T,S 
B-52 T 
Banana Route T 
Bird's Nest Crack T 
Black Magic T 
Butter D Licious S 
Chimney Route T 
City Of Worms S 
Cloudy Day T 
Copout T 
Dance with the Devil S 
Dead Reckoning S 
Deborah T 
dreadlock T 
Easy Street TR 
Exit Stage Right T 
Flight of the Swallows T 
Full Moon Bar B Que S 
Gaia T 
Ginsu T,S 
Golden Arch T 
Golden Arches T 
Graham's Crack T 
Hob Knob T 
Hot Steele S 
Hot Wing S 
Laser T 
Left of Wolfe Wall T 
Lone Wolf On the Far Ridge T 
Man Overboard T,S 
Mantis, The T 
Mean Lean S 
Meathooks S 
Minnie Driver S 
Modern Day Pirates T 
Monopoly T 
Mystery Slab S 
New Ideal T 
no name (on Wolf Wall) T,S 
Oak (AKA Oak Tree Direct), The T 
Papillon T,S 
Petrified T 
Pinch-It (Penchant) T 
Polar Express T,S 
project on Wolf Wall S 
Psycho Killer S 
Putting Out the Vibe T 
Reckoning Day T 
Renegade Trad S 
Resistoflex T 
Rockwa S 
Rustler S 
Scooter Girl T 
Song of the Cows S 
Steele Head T 
Stepping Out T 
Sting  T 
Stories T 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Suspended Animation T 
Tech Noir S 
Three Pitch T 
Tornado on your Birthday T 
Triad T 
unnamed 5.10 left of Psycho Killer T 
unnamed 5.9 (area left of Wolf Wall) T 
unnamed trad on wolf wall T 
Vineland T,S 
Walk the Line T 
Welcome to Steele T 
Wendy's Finger Crack T 
Wolfe-Waites T 
Wolverine T 
Wrangler T 


YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Hemphill
New Route: Yes
Season: anything but summer
Page Views: 1,160
Submitted By: chris mcclendon on Mar 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Thin moves on little protection. I'd suggest toproping it. It's finished after about 50 feet.

where its at 

just left of grahams crack, look for the single bolt approx. 35-40 feet off the deck


Two yellow Aliens, one #1 Camalot, one bolt at crux. Carry a couple of extra nuts and/or cams to avoid potential groundfall from top (15-20 feet runout above crux/bolt). Rap or set up toprope from trees.

Comments on Papillon Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Hemphill
From: Birmingham, Al
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I first spotted this line years ago while lowering off of GRAHAM'S CRACK. Much inquiry produced nothing except the probability that it had been toproped. The crux is about 40 feet up- in ground fall zone- and completely lacking any possibility of naturally protecting. Having already worked the moves on TR, I placed a bolt by hand drill. No ground up style, sorry.
There is good gear about 15 feet up and then again several feet later. That and the 3/8 3.25" Fixe bolt at the crux should keep you off the deck. The crux is about 15 feet of V2 and takes you to an easy slab in ground fall territory. Top it out however you see fit- you can find some good gear to get you off.
My first FA and a huge joy. All ballet like face moves on stellar Steele hard sandstone. No particularly reachy moves. A high step on a good crimp, a heel hook, a triple Gaston with a reach through to a nice rail- beautiful rock. Have fun. Let me know what you think. Thanks to Chris, Bob, Matt and Jake the Snake for their patience and encouragement.
By Bob Farley
Mar 13, 2009


Nice shot. It will be interesting to see if this has ever been an established route or not.
Check out bhamterminal.com . I posted your photo and a bit about Steele.
By chris mcclendon
From: Gardendale, Alabama
Mar 13, 2009

again...congradulations dave, Im stoked for ya buddy. Im also stoked for the future of our climbing at Steele (another one of those climber owned crags).
By David Hemphill
From: Birmingham, Al
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

After leading it a second time and then watching Will E. float the onsight, I'm reassessing the grade. Hmm. Compared to other routes I've done, 10b sounds about right. Funny how your peception changes. Maybe it's a style, personal strength thing. Dunno. This is not a sandbag; I would, however, like to see the grades at Steele stay respectable, conservative.
By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Sep 15, 2009

the FA of this was done years ago.....at least i think so.....i'll know when i go next time and see if this is the one.
By David Hemphill
From: Birmingham, Al
Jan 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

finally, you weigh in on this line. LOL. I kept trying to ask you about it years ago. Is this the same line you and Mac McNease climbed back in the eighties? Did you guys lead the same line? The crux w/o the bolt is in groundfall territory. call me sometime, B. 205.253.0691
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!