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Steele
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Papillon 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Hemphill
New Route: Yes
Season: anything but summer
Page Views: 1,024
Submitted By: chris mcclendon on Mar 8, 2009
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DAVE HEMPHILL on F.A. of
PAPPILLON 5.10+ STEELE,AL...

Description 

Thin moves on little protection. I'd suggest toproping it. It's finished after about 50 feet.


where its at 

just left of grahams crack, look for the single bolt approx. 35-40 feet off the deck


Protection 

Two yellow Aliens, one #1 Camalot, one bolt at crux. Carry a couple of extra nuts and/or cams to avoid potential groundfall from top (15-20 feet runout above crux/bolt). Rap or set up toprope from trees.



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By David Hemphill
From: Birmingham, Al
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I first spotted this line years ago while lowering off of GRAHAM'S CRACK. Much inquiry produced nothing except the probability that it had been toproped. The crux is about 40 feet up- in ground fall zone- and completely lacking any possibility of naturally protecting. Having already worked the moves on TR, I placed a bolt by hand drill. No ground up style, sorry.
There is good gear about 15 feet up and then again several feet later. That and the 3/8 3.25" Fixe bolt at the crux should keep you off the deck. The crux is about 15 feet of V2 and takes you to an easy slab in ground fall territory. Top it out however you see fit- you can find some good gear to get you off.
My first FA and a huge joy. All ballet like face moves on stellar Steele hard sandstone. No particularly reachy moves. A high step on a good crimp, a heel hook, a triple Gaston with a reach through to a nice rail- beautiful rock. Have fun. Let me know what you think. Thanks to Chris, Bob, Matt and Jake the Snake for their patience and encouragement.

By Bob Farley
Mar 13, 2009

Chris,

Nice shot. It will be interesting to see if this has ever been an established route or not.
Check out www.bhamterminal.com . I posted your photo and a bit about Steele.

By chris mcclendon
From: Gardendale, Alabama
Mar 13, 2009

again...congradulations dave, Im stoked for ya buddy. Im also stoked for the future of our climbing at Steele (another one of those climber owned crags).

By David Hemphill
From: Birmingham, Al
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

After leading it a second time and then watching Will E. float the onsight, I'm reassessing the grade. Hmm. Compared to other routes I've done, 10b sounds about right. Funny how your peception changes. Maybe it's a style, personal strength thing. Dunno. This is not a sandbag; I would, however, like to see the grades at Steele stay respectable, conservative.

By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Sep 15, 2009

the FA of this was done years ago.....at least i think so.....i'll know when i go next time and see if this is the one.

By David Hemphill
From: Birmingham, Al
Jan 8, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

finally, you weigh in on this line. LOL. I kept trying to ask you about it years ago. Is this the same line you and Mac McNease climbed back in the eighties? Did you guys lead the same line? The crux w/o the bolt is in groundfall territory. call me sometime, B. 205.253.0691