Paper Mill Rd Rock Climbing
Just south of the Paper Mill Road Bridge, in the woods on the east shore of Loch Raven/Gunpowder river, lie several small rock outcrops with a plethora of boulders strewn about. Most climbs here are boulder problems. But there are some routes pushing 20+ feet, of which one may want to set up a short TR on. Anchors can be long and tricky to set up. Depending on where one is, either gear and/or natural anchors are used.
The rock type here is a Loch Raven Schist. Beware that poison ivy exists along the trail walking in and near some of the rock.
Parking is limited along Paper Mill Road at the bridge, but there are three nearby options, and then more further away if you don't mind a hike. Watch pulling out if parked at bridge, limited sight distance and high traffic (esp at rush hour) make it tricky.
PLEASE NOTE: If you climb here or just decide to hike in to see the area, be a good land steward and take a trash bag or two with you. The local fisherman are turning the area into a landfill. This is especially true around Fisherman's Rock.
Park at bridge and locate the fisherman's trail on the southeast side of the old bridge (behind the wall). Follow this past a few boulders to the river and follow it down stream, you will then come to "Fisherman's Rock". At the end of this rock, you can scramble up a 7 foot high rock wall to follow the trail and continue on to the other better climbing areas. takes about 3 to 5 min. to walk.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 0.6 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Paper Mill Rd
Time Of The Prophets 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c MD
: Baltimore City Watershed
: ... : The Fins
This climb follows a series of flakes. Start where the small boulder (V1) sticks up out of the ground directly below a left facing flake. Using the boulder makes the first crux easier. Avoid it if you want to keep a stiffer challenge. Small crimpers, slopers and an undercling will get you to the flake. Power up to the top of the first flake and head to the right aiming for a small right facing flake on good but very sharp/small crimpers (crux). Once you make it to the right facing flake, work yo...[more] Browse More Classics in MD