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Papaya Crack 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robert Finley, 1985
Page Views: 1,179
Submitted By: Will S on Dec 26, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Papaya Crack

Description 

Fun climbing punctuated with a very short tips lieback crux.

Location 

Obvious thin crack/dihedral line 15' left of the Left Banana Crack, topping out on the shoulder of the formation. Approach from the left via 4th class gully, or the right via easy scrambling to a short hand traverse (from the right is much easier IMO). Descend by downclimbing climbers' left of the route.

Protection 

Mostly thin to fingers. Take small to med stoppers and cams up to .75 camalot. Anchor takes stoppers, tips sized cams, and/or .5 camalot to #2 camalot.


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Papaya crack
BETA PHOTO: Papaya crack

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By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 28, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Short but quality with a brief crux - a good route for somebody breaking into the grade.

Protects well with small cams and wires; nothing larger than a #2 Camalot should be needed (including the anchor).
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 30, 2009

Just revisted this one, lead it where I'd followed it before. A couple things stand out. First, this probably deserves a PG13. You're pulling some .10ish moves just below the crux with super fiddly gear, trying to get over the initial bulge and into the corner, looking at decking. You get a choice...mediocre gear in your best fingerlock, making the moves a good deal harder, or no gear (for those moves, there is gear lower) and a 12' groundfall if you blow it. So contra to Chris, I'd say this isn't a great one for breaking into the grade even though the crux is short. Once established in the corner, the gear is perfect, but pick your placement carefully...there are a couple spots in this tips crack a bit wider than the rest, don't obstruct these with gear.
By Nick Barczak
Apr 1, 2009

I've been on this route 3 times (twice following and once leading), and I'm not sure I agree with the ground-fall potential comment. I felt the climb protected very well with nuts (BD size 4 and 5) and small cams (Metolius mastercam, purple and blue) up to and through the thin crack portion. That being said, unless you have tiny fingers you will have to milk specific jams.

I'd recommend it as a good climb to break into the grade on as it has a short crux followed by victory jugs. Fun climb, and all the more worthwhile since its right next to several other quality (albeit short) lines.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 2, 2009

Like Nick, I've also been on it three times. For clarity, you can get decent overhead gear to protect the moves getting into the corner (you don't HAVE to risk a groundfall)...but like I said, it will fill up the best lock and make the move substantially harder (still not the crux). And you might not actually deck if you fall from there, but it's going to be real close. I went up and down a few times hanging out midway through that sequence trying to wiggle in a bunch of different things (tcus, stoppers, brass, C3s) to avoid putting gear in that crucial lock. Nothing I could get in there would I be willing to fall on. You might be better with funky gear than me though, or taller. Eventually I just pulled the move without pro. Be careful on the hollow undercling flake feature down low, it's pretty sketchy.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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