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Papa's Got a Brand New Crag 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: K Mclaughlin , G Schuler
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 25, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Fantastic climbing on this route.

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Description 

Climb past one bolt to a finger crack.


Location 

This is right of Stranglehold.


Protection 

Gear required.



Photos of Papa's Got a Brand New Crag Slideshow Add Photo
K. Mclaughlin high on Papa's New Crag.   Photo by the G.
K. Mclaughlin high on Papa's New Crag. Photo by ...
Glenn Schuler on Papa.    Photo David Russell.
Glenn Schuler on Papa. Photo David Russell.
A nice friendly top rope, I think this is the crux. <br />
A nice friendly top rope, I think this is the crux...
Brandon working his way through the Post Office Wall.
Brandon working his way through the Post Office Wa...
Comments on Papa's Got a Brand New Crag Add Comment
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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

One of the best pitches I've ever climbed. just amazing movement and very sustained. 5 out of 4 stars.
the gear is bomber, and just where you need it.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2011

Agreed with Monty. REALLY fun route! Red and grey Aliens (or similar) might be nice before the first bolt. Amazing how this rock eats up finger pieces and nuts on killer sporty climbing!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 8, 2011

I see people are going right of the bolt on this climb.... I went left and thought it was at least .11+ if not .12- (compared to other routes at T-Ridge). Pretty desperate moves off of an undercling and terrible side-pull to a bad side-pull to slopers.

BETA: a BD #0.75 and #0.5 protect the moves to the bolt nicely. I was able to climb up real fast in tennis shoes, place the #0.75 in a bomber placement and then jump back down.

By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I found this thing to be much harder than it looks. The gear was not as plug and go as it looks either, kinda the typical Thunder rounded flare in the back, but maybe I just suck at plugging gear. Good climb, sustained, turns out its a little tough warmup.

By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Sep 27, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13

This route is killer fun!! Steep wall, positive holds on solid rock, goes mostly on gear - it don't get much better! I got an extra large nut and 0.75 Camalot right next to each other for my first pieces before the bolt. From here, I ran it to the bolt, which is spicy but positive. Spoiler beta alert: after clipping the bolt and stepping upward one move, move right further than you might think, step up on nubbin, and you'll be set up to go for the right pinch above the slab, rather than going for a desperate undercling.

By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is a very fun route, classic Thunder: funky, exciting, with some surprises. As stated, #0.75 and #0.5 Camalots protect the moves to the bolt. A good blue Alien goes in from the next stance, and a super-bomb #0.3 Camalot goes in one move up.

Thanks for the bolt, opens up a real good line. Why not go for the mantle-funk-to-undercling, it's sweet!