Originally a traditional line, and the first up the face, the first 3 pitches have been retrobolted. The first two pitches also serve as access for a couple more climbs.
P1 (5.9) 30m: Starts on a corner between two caves. A long wandering line that has intermediate anchors about half way up if you want to break it up to reduce drag. More traditional than sporty, has some weird, slopey, friction sorta moves.
P2 (5.9) 22m: More of the same but a bit more direct. I vaguely remember some sort of minor roof that you step around. Finishes at the huge ledge.
P3 (5.10b) 25m: The money pitch. I recommend using the anchors directly under the climb to reduce drag. Go all the way left on the big ledge to the corner to set up a new anchor and continue up to a small alcove.
P4 (5.9) 20m: Continue up the growing corner. The grade eases off but so do the bolts. You need some traditional gear to lead this without it being runout.
Follow the trail from the road to the center of the face. You should walk past a small pond and damn. This should drop you off at a fairly obvious belay area with a cave just left of you. Head straight up the corner-ish thing.
Where the climb got its name from.
By Michael Bae
From: Vancouver, British Columbia
3 days ago
Anyone have any trad gear beta on this? Considering bringing a small rack, but unsure what is required!