This route is pretty straightforward until you get to the roof. Then it's a hand jam and a long reach to a jug in the middle of two cracks. Some fancy footwork (a toe jam and a heel hook) will get you to the top. The guidebook rates this as a 5.9, which is way off. Count on something harder.
This route begins on the left-most of the three cracks that are Papa, Mama, and Baby (left to right, respectively).
BETA PHOTO: The obvious roof with a splitter through it.
Crux Move on Papa Bear
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 18, 2008
If you can do a pull up, this one is not too bad. Probably a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but there is a huge jug past the lip that you can cut your feet loose and swing from. Its probably 5.8 just getting to the roof, then power moves after it.
|By Rob Lilley|
From: Greensboro, NC
Aug 15, 2012
Is this leadable on trad gear? It's listed as a TR but it looks feasible, if a little spicy lower down?
May 15, 2014
The chalk-marked hold on the left edge of the roof is LOOSE! It may still hold for a while, especially if you grab nearer the wall (imagine the bottom scoop of a J being the more stable bit), but someone is going to crank on the far edge, and be in for a dangerous surprise. This is a larger rock, so I'm urging CAUTION on this route. Skip that hold or give it up.