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This route is pretty straightforward until you get to the roof. Then it's a hand jam and a long reach to a jug in the middle of two cracks. Some fancy footwork (a toe jam and a heel hook) will get you to the top. The guidebook rates this as a 5.9, which is way off. Count on something harder.
This route begins on the left-most of the three cracks that are Papa, Mama, and Baby (left to right, respectively).
BETA PHOTO: The obvious roof with a splitter through it.
From: Lyons, CO
Oct 18, 2008
If you can do a pull up, this one is not too bad. Probably a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but there is a huge jug past the lip that you can cut your feet loose and swing from. Its probably 5.8 just getting to the roof, then power moves after it.
By Rob Lilley
From: Greensboro, NC
Aug 15, 2012
Is this leadable on trad gear? It's listed as a TR but it looks feasible, if a little spicy lower down?
May 15, 2014
The chalk-marked hold on the left edge of the roof is LOOSE! It may still hold for a while, especially if you grab nearer the wall (imagine the bottom scoop of a J being the more stable bit), but someone is going to crank on the far edge, and be in for a dangerous surprise. This is a larger rock, so I'm urging CAUTION on this route. Skip that hold or give it up.