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Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.
There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.
10 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf):
Via das Italianos 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 9 pitches, 700'
Featured Route For Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 South America : Brazil : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This route is on the north face of the Pao de Acucar. It was established in the 80s by some of the best climbers of the time. It is a mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing, and is absolutely beautiful. Very characteristic of Rio,and of the Pao de Acucar.It is a long route, but can be done in a few hours if you are climbing well. Due to the wandering nature of the route it is best to have a topo....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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