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Home to some of the most classic and fun multi-pitch climbing in Rio. If you are a climber, there is no excuse to take the cable car to the top. There are routes for all ability levels, so choose wisely. Many of the bigger routes are bolt protected, but be prepared for run-outs and a very traditional feel. Bring long runners and a 60 meter rope. Some of the best routes on the Pao de Acucar are the Via das Italianos, Waldemar Guimaraes, the Totem, the Chiminea Stop, and Secundo Costa Neto.
There are five main areas on the Pao de Acucar: each of the four faces, and the Totem, which is part of the south face. As a point of reference, the west face is directly underneath the cable car route. To access the west and north face, you must hike over the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, on a well established trail that splits off of the main paved path which skirts the south side of the formation. To reach the south face, there are smaller climber trails established that break off of the same paved path. To reach the east face, you walk to the end of the paved trail and then cross 4th and 5th class terrain to get to the base of the climbs.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf):
Coringa 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Sport, 3 pitches, 330'
Chamine Stop 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 750'
Via das Italianos 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 9 pitches, 700'
As de Espadas 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Secundo Costa Neto 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 800'
Alfredo Marciel 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Lagartao 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800'
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a PG13 Trad, Sport, 10 pitches, 1000'
Via do Totem 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 750'
Featured Route For Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Lagartao 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a International : South America : ... : Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
This is one of the more popular routes up the Totem, the huge pillar leaning on the south face of Pao de Acucar. It is a multi-pitch trad/sport route that has hard face, hard crack, and fun chimney climbing. The first ascent party did it without sticky rubber and at the time it was one of the hardest routes in Brasil....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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