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Photograph by Mason Miller
This single pitch trad line on the Panty Wall is to the left of the popular sport routes on the main face. The climb begins on the left side of the face, near where the pine tree used to be. It heads straight up the face to a small ceiling produced by the transition to the black varnished plates. Climb the left margin of an orange section to a thin right leaning crack to a two-bolt anchor on top.
BETA PHOTO: another view of the climb.
Absolutely incredible sunset. Top-roping
Shayne Durfee on a panty raid, Photo by Adam Clark
Lock and pull on panty raid
Fred Batliner leading. (c) Scott Nomi.
Chris H using the hands free head jamb
Chris H on Panty Raid
Joe climbs Panty Raid
looking down the route
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 7, 2006
this is 5.10 in Swain, but it's really not. .9+ is a more accurate rating- really good.
just bring a set of stoppers and sew it up, no cams needed.
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 31, 2006
Agreed. Nuts only!!
From: las vegas, NV
Apr 30, 2009
Makes a great TR solo. The rock is beautifully varnished. The route is very steep at the top.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 18, 2010
Route is overhanging at the top - great moves on the upper varnished section.
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 18, 2011
Led this yesterday, I agree nuts only. The crux felt significantly harder than 5.9 to me, more like 10a/b. The rest of the route was definitely 5.9 though and protects well with wires everywhere. I couple people I was with top roped it afterwards and it seemed significantly easier for the shorter climber in our party.
Dec 13, 2012
5.10a in my book! Ridiculously awesome, good stances to fish in nuts and oogle the sport climbers on the Panty Wall. Lots of nuts. I placed a .3 and .5 camalot pretty much for kicks and they were not ideal placements. Nuts. Nuts. Nuts.
Mantling off of the varnish onto the soft slab above seemed to be the hardest move! Brah!
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 11, 2013
Best route on the wall by far. Great pro, cool moves, if you miss the key toe hold it is 10a lockoff near the top, otherwise probably a little easier.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 26, 2013
This route really does take nuts well, but one thing to keep in mind before you set and jet is that if you have any doubts at all that you may fall at the crux, you should have at least one cam or oppositional nut in. My partner (who was quite competent and no rookie) zippered several pieces--up to his single cam placement--during a fall at the crux. I think the position of the belayer in relation to the wall doesn't help.
|By Tyson W.|
From: Reno, NV
Apr 12, 2013
An excellent climb with mostly passive pro and a clear and defined crux at the top. Just a couple notes:
I climbed this at the end of march this year and there was what appeared to be a fixed nut right at the crux. Getting to clip this took a lot of spice away from an excellent and aesthetic route. Hopefully someone takes the time to remove this piece so the route is clean again. I was with a big party on a busy Saturday, so I didn't even try to remove it, but it looked pretty buried. Not a local, so I have no idea how long it has been there.
The party before us was doing TR laps on it, and they did not extend the anchors over the edge. The rope drag looked horrendous, the lady was literally putting all of her body weight on the rope to pull in slack. Beyond drag, ropes over edges = bad. The anchors are pretty far back there, I brought a 30ft cord and still had to extend the power point with runners to get a good TR situation.