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Panthalassa 
Proto-Pacific 
Tethys 

Panthalassa 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott Salzer and Erik Johnson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,078
Submitted By: Erik J. on May 29, 2012
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Loren Rausch leading the last pitch of Panthalassa...

Description 

FA 5/20/2012. Four main pitches, one belay move and another really short pitch to get to the tippy top. 5.7, 5.11, 5.9, 5.10, 5.5 (15'). Big pockets. The crux is boulder problem length.
The first pitch is an approach pitch. The belay move pitch (The Cockles Traverse) has even worse rock than the first or the actual summit. The rest of the climb is solid. The summit is very cool, but the last 5-10' of the wall the rock quality seriously deteriorates. There are good bolts on the summit ridge.
See the photo and topo for more info.


Location 

To get to the Evolution Fin (we just made that up, if there is already a name for it great: what is it?) take the climbers track left a hundred yards before the Main Area, just before the small rock downclimb in the trail. Keep going sidehill and uphill until the path basically deadends at the base of the climb. There is a large block leaning against the wall just to the left of where the climb starts. See photo and topo.


Protection 

All bolts and bolted anchors with rappel chains. Pitches 2,3,4 have 11 bolts each and the anchor.
If you top out, don't try to rappel past the anchor 15' down from the summit anchor (horrendous rope drag over the summit choss), instead do a 15' rap, an 85', an 80', a 30', a 90' and a 90'. A 60m rope works great, just be careful. Again, see topo.



Photos of Panthalassa Slideshow Add Photo
Drawn topo.
BETA PHOTO: Drawn topo.
Climbing the third pitch of Panthalassa on the east side of Frog Rock, Bozeman, MT.
Climbing the third pitch of Panthalassa on the eas...
Loren Rausch leading the last pitch of Panthalassa during the first ascent (Bridget Belliveau at the belay)
Loren Rausch leading the last pitch of Panthalassa...
Following up pitch 4 on Panthalassa.
Following up pitch 4 on Panthalassa.
The route as seen from the main approach trail.  The start of the first pitch is obscured.  The red circles are anchor stations.
BETA PHOTO: The route as seen from the main approach trail. T...
starting up the 3rd pitch on Panthalassa, Frog Rock, MT
starting up the 3rd pitch on Panthalassa, Frog Roc...
Comments on Panthalassa Add Comment
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By Jay Hack
From: Royal Oak, MI
May 30, 2012

Looks like a great route EJ! Way to get after it!

By Seldom Seen Smith
Jun 23, 2012

Super Fun. A little dirty in spots but hopefully it will clean up as it gets more attention. I would recommend using 3-4 slings on pitch 3 for any future parties, that helped me a lot with rope drag.

By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jul 4, 2012

the approach can be biked....this route looks fantastic, cant wait to get on it

By T Howes
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 27, 2012

Great route with a nice trail. Rock quality is good and will get better with traffic. I definitely recommend biking the approach trail.

By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13

Do you enjoy pulling on pockets filled with dirt? Do you enjoy gingerly standing on loose flakes? Do you enjoy watching grapefruit sized knobs come flying off when you pull your rappel ropes? Do you enjoy walking an hour and climbing 4 pitches of choss for 2 good moves? If so, panthalassa may be for you!

Common side effects include: BringAHelmet Syndrome, wishing your belayer was more sheltered, wishing the rock was as solid as the canadian rockies or tetons, and wishing that you had a leaf blower & crowbar along to actually clean the route.
........................
If there wasn't so much loose rock and it wasn't so dirty, this would actually be a halfway decent route; some of the pockets were fun and the crux sequence was intriguing. Unfortunately, it is currently 4 pitches of bolted friable limestone with about ten feet of good climbing (and even there, in the crux sequence, the pockets are dirty).

PG 13 for the amount of loose rock--I have never been so terrified as when I watched another party roll up as we neared the top. Almost impossible to avoid sending a constant stream of pebbles down, punctuated with the periodic baseballs.

TL;DR: Unless there's a herculean cleaning effort, don't waste your time.

By Alex W
Apr 27, 2013

Rarely post on mountain project.. However climbed "Panthalassa" today on 4/27/13. Found enjoyable climbing and all good bolts (noticed ~3 that were replaced recently). The stone is not perfect.. but the climbing is good! Future parties may want to bring a brush and do their part to clean up a little dirt and loose rock here and there. The trail is great and easy to follow. I did leave some cord and rap rings on the 2nd pitch's anchor to not interfere with the fixed line (that was tied into the rappel rings). All things that are good!

By Alex W
Apr 27, 2013

and bring a helmet!

By Dane Christensen
From: Bozone
Jul 11, 2013

3rd/4th/nth for the helmet!
A bit chossy here and there, but a fun thin crux and a good adventure altogether.