Pansy Wall  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Doug Swords, Nathan Brown Submitted By:  nbrown on Jun 26, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jon F following the first pitch.

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All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>> It’s the time of year to welcome back North Carolina’s peregrine falcons. While the peregrine falcon was removed from the United States Fish and Wildlife Service’s endangered species list in 1999, it remains listed as sensitive by the Regional Forester and endangered by the state of North Carolina. These designations continue to afford the peregrine falcon protection as the Forest Service and partner agencies work to conserve and protect the species. Thirteen pairs nested in 2010, eight of which were on Forest Service lands. While 2010 appears to have been a good year for the falcons, long-term reproductive success continues to be a concern. Young chicks startled prior to acquiring full flight capability will run off the edge of the cliff attempting to escape the threat. Entry into a closure site after the chicks have hatched but before they can fly will almost certainly cause this response. Closure of the cliffs where peregrine falcons are nesting to climbing activities is necessary to limit disturbance during critical reproductive seasons. Climbers should be aware that both the adults and newly fledged chicks remain in the vicinity of the nest site, and may fly or dive at nearby climbers. It is unlawful to take (kill, harass, or injure, including eggs) peregrine falcons and other birds of prey (Migratory Bird Treaty Act, 16 USC 703-712). Until such time as western North Carolina can maintain a healthy reproduction rate and successfully raise young peregrine falcons, the existing closures will be maintained, posted, and enforced. Entry into or upon the areas defined above is prohibited between January 15 and August 15. Areas are defined by orange painted boundary or posted signs. This closure is in effect whether or not signs are present. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013, All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed due to local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Start under the right side of the cave feature. Climb the feature past 3 bolts and gear (up to a # 3 camelot). The 3rd bolt is a difficult clip (placed high due to poor rock quality lower). Belay at 2 bolt hanging belay. P-2 Crank hard up the steep wall past a bolt and a few pieces of gear to a belay at a good horizontal. P-3 Climb out right and up the steep clean wall past a pin to a technical face and eventually a large belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. P-4 Continue to top.

Location 

Between Direct Action and Pixie Wall.

Protection 

Standard rack. Hybrid aliens were used on the FA and would likely be usefull.

Photos of Pansy Wall Slideshow

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First pitch.