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North Carolina Wall
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Life is like a rubber rope T 
Lost In Time T 
Pansy Wall T 
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Tarantula T 

Pansy Wall 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  Doug Swords, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 1,005
Submitted By: nbrown on Jun 26, 2008

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Jon F following the first pitch.

  • All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route climbs the tallest and steepest part of the NC wall. It took quite a while to complete due to hard climbing, poor rock that had to be cleaned (P-1), and poor summer weather conditions, but it's a very worthwhile line for the grade and deserves some traffic.

    P-1 Start under the right side of the cave feature. Climb the feature past 3 bolts and gear (up to a # 3 camelot). The 3rd bolt is a difficult clip (placed high due to poor rock quality lower). Belay at 2 bolt hanging belay. Note: This pitch makes for a great rainy day pitch if you happen to be in the area (when it comes). Huge roofs protect from even the heaviest of storms.

    P-2 Crank hard up the steep wall past a bolt and a few pieces of gear to a belay at a good horizontal. Air time is not mandatory but is very likely!

    P-3 Climb out right and up the steep clean wall past a pin (may need to be replaced) to a technical face and eventually a large belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

    P-4 Continue to top via numerous possibilities.

    Location 

    Between Direct Action and Pixie Wall.

    Protection 

    Standard rack. Hybrid aliens were used on the FA and would likely be usefull.


    Photos of Pansy Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    First pitch.
    First pitch.
    An adventurous hard NC wall route.
    BETA PHOTO: An adventurous hard NC wall route.

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