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Motherlode Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
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Funkadelia T 
Golden Showers T 
Good Day for a Hangin' S 
Highgrader S 
Long Arm of The Law S 
Mighty Quinn S 
Panning for Gold S 
Reach for the Sky S 
Stake Your Claim S 
Whiskeroo S 

Panning for Gold 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (TR) Chris Miller & Tim Fearn, 1990, FL: Chris Miller, Sean Godwin & Nathan Fitzhugh, May 2002
Page Views: 828
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 8, 2006

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Joel on Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley P...

Description 

Tricky moves up slanting edges gain a stance below a bulging face with a 3" vertical dike system running up it. Power out the bulge and continue up the staircased dike to anchors on a ledge.

Althought on the short side, this fun route features a variety of moves on mostly quality rock with a memorable finish up the dike.

Location 

Furthest right bolted route on the wall and just right of Whiskeroo.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors


Photos of Panning for Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Motherlode Rock - West Face (right side).
BETA PHOTO: Motherlode Rock - West Face (right side).

Comments on Panning for Gold Add Comment
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By MAR
Jun 15, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is the scariest 5.10b lead I have done at Holcomb, and the moves over the bulge (from 1st-2nd clip) would make me rate it a 5.10c. The exposure (and potential ledge fall) from the third clip is heady. Be careful. A spotter for the first clip is a must. That said, the movement on this route is excellent and varied. Enjoy...and if you choose to top rope instead of lead, set a directional off the fourth bolt to minimize your swing.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Aug 22, 2010

Fun climb with a variety of power moves, high steps, and tricky body position through the slanted chimney/roof.

Clipped the 3rd bolt on the roof but swung out to the right to climb over the bulge and to the top.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Opening moves are nice, strenuous, yet technical too, with a surprise element of balance.
By Erin Selvaggio
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
Jun 10, 2013

REALLY FUN ROUTE... opening moves to the first bolt are bouldery but FUN! To me the crux is getting over your first bolt. A little balancy and committing (especially for a 10b) but the FUN the rest of the way!