Panic in the Gray Room 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001 |
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Tomoko Jewell leading her first 5.10a.
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Description This is probably one of the best slab routes in the canyon.
Protection Quickdraws for the bolts, the route can be toproped from a 2 bolt anchor at the top.
BETA PHOTO
| Todd Pett at the start of Panic in the Gray Room.
| Todd Pett up higher, as the calves are beginning t...
| This climb is thin!
| Tara leading with Jenny belaying.
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| Comments on Panic in the Gray Room |
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn Dec 31, 2001
| One of the best slab routes anywhere! Talk about "'nuttin but dimes" this route edges up perfect rock and definatly seemed a bit harder then 10a (and I love slabs!) A great calf workout;I just wish it was a full pitch long. |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Feb 11, 2002
| Wow, this is a sustained pitch! Should be mandatory training for all aspiring slab masters. Great rock and (often) nice and warm in the winter. |
By Todd Pett Feb 12, 2002
| This is a great slab route with well placed protection and it will give your calves a workout. I agree with Old Fart that the rating might be a bit on the low side. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 27, 2002 rating: 5.10c
| Don't kid a kidder. And don't sandbag a.... 10a? OK, admittedly slab on slopers and chips is my weakness, and maybe it was the 90+ degree heat... but I'd say that this climb is a lot harder than 5.10a. Either that or I just fell off of a 5.10a.... Nah, my fragile ego can't handle that- must be harder. (snicker) The route is good fun, but my feet were crying bloody murder up top. I also did find that near the second-to-last bolt is was much easier to step to the right and finish to the right than it was to stay left. I made it that way without falling. |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Jun 28, 2002
| In the summer, when this south-facing slab is hot enough to fry an egg on, this route could be near impossible! Even when cool I agree it seemed harder than 10a, it is quite sustained. I backed off leading this sucker, if you have gear you can lead up "Emergency Entrance" and TR this route. I suppose you could also get to the top via I.V. League. |
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn Jun 28, 2002
| I'm going to have to chime in here since I started the comment thread. Yea, this route is probably " a little bit " under rated but in my personal grading scale is at most 10c/d. There aren't any slopers as Tony might suggest, just razor clean edges, some of the best I've ever laid finger on (but they are small). This is my "Gold" standard route for a fun moderate slab on the Front Range. An absolute must do at least once (since the approach is HIDEOUS for a route this short, or I'd be doing this climb once a month :-) ! ) |
By Jeff St. Pierre Jul 13, 2002
| Super awesome climb... a series of "finger nail cleans" and lots of balance. I topped this and fell once but, I blame that on the hot rock melting the soles of my shoes off... (do I get points for creativity on that excuse?) I plan to return and lead this with better shoes and in cooler weather. I'd say this is more like a 10c sport slab, because of the sustained crimps and micro-toes. Worth the 10-15 minute hike uphill. |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Jun 20, 2005
| I recently did Upside the Cranium on Monkey Skull and Panic in the Grey Room felt harder. Lower angle, but fewer holds. Just my vote, for what it's worth ... |
By Charles Danforth From: L'ville, CO Jul 11, 2005
| Mama Mia that's a spicy slab route! From the bottom, I'd assumed the crux was the steepest part, right off the deck. Wrong-o! It starts hard and stays hard until about 20' from the top. Route-finding (if you can call it that) is key and you've got to get pretty close to see all the dime-edge holds you'll be doing pull-ups on. Doing it in 90+ degree heat made me nice and flexible, it's true, but my fingertips are blistered and my nails are [eroded] down to nothing. Yow! |
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Jul 20, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Yea this would be a pretty sick lead, we TR'd it. I've followed 10b's in Eldo easier and less sustained than this. Think microcrimp for 70'...and you'll be fine. |
By J. Elsasser Aug 18, 2005
| Great climb to scare the crap out of you if your a apspiring Slab Master. It makes your think and be on your toes until the last 20 ft or so. Lead this about 5 years ago. Scary lead. :) |
By Bo Johnston Sep 18, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| I'd kick in 10b/c. This route was killer and spicy on lead. I wouldn't recommend trying this on hot/warmer days 'cause ya need the rubber to work. Much harder than most other slab route I've climbed (ie: Crest Jewel, North Dome, YNS) |
By Shibby From: Denver, Co Jul 9, 2007
| An absolute must do, my all time personal favorite slab lead. It’s thin, sustained, and wonderful. |
By outdooreric From: Lyons, CO Feb 25, 2008 rating: 5.10a
| I agree that this climb is temperature dependent. I climbed it on a cool overcast day in February and it wasn't that bad, and certainly easier than "Acts of Contrition" on the Lower Slabs. Many of the bolts are a bit reachy, which certainly adds to the excitement level and makes it feel more difficult. Watch out getting to the second bolt, if you were to blow that clip you might hit the boulder behind the start. |
By Ben Burnett Feb 10, 2009 rating: 5.10+ R
| You would hit the rib of rock if you blow the second bolt. The climbing is very good, but several bolts were poorly placed for me. It is a good toprope, but I had more success on the "10d" to the left. I'd give it another star if the second bolt were lower. |
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Jun 1, 2009
| Fantastic route that will keep you thinking almost the whole way. Bolt placement is a bit scary, definitely don't miss your second clip as the ground will definitely get you. And hey Tomoko. If that is truly your first 5.10a lead, big congrats! Not a climb that most people would pick or could do for that matter first time out at that grade. Probably closer to 5.10b anyways. |
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