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The Loaf
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Alabama Hills Gang 
Loaf Arete 
Pangborn 
Ranger Ron 
Unsorted Routes:

Pangborn 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael Strassman & Jackie Carroll
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 23, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: "Pangborn".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Excellent face climbing with a distinct crux at the 6th bolt. This route is not as sustained as Ranger Ron. The crux is very well protected, but there are sometimes 5.6 moves 10 feet above the last bolt.


Location 

Steps off the middle of a boulder, just left of Ranger Ron. See photo


Protection 

10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rappel chains

Use a #1 TCU in a horizontal to plug a strange run-out mid-way up the route



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Like Ranger Ron, several of the bolts on this route were under drilled, leaving bolts that protrude from the holes and hangers that do not touch the wall.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Jul 28, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Dunno what folks are thinking when it comes to the terrain on Pangborn compared to Alabama Hills Gang. Pangborn clearly has pretty positive holds throughout the route, even at the crux. The first 35' feet of AHG is certainly tougher; clean slab with crimpy small holes for holds.

Pangborn is a beautiful route but AHG is clearly the tougher route IMO.

By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 19, 2009

I agree with Dave - AHG is significantly harder. I thought that Ranger Ron might even be harder than Pangborn, since there's more sustained climbing.

By BAd
Apr 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I'd say for sure 10a, but not sustained, as others have mentioned. I've been doing a lot of 10a's in the Hills recently, and that "distinct crux" qualifies.

Scott

By Richard Shore
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

10a for sure. Brief 2-3 move crux on thin holds. 2 ropes are needed to rap, a single 70m will not make it down.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

There may be 11 bolts on this route. Lewis BARC guide states as such and I didn't note otherwise. As for the route, I couldn't agree more that this route is excellent and far easier than the Alabama Hills Gang.

Note height of this crag (42 meter). Bring two ropes! Also a trick that worked very well for us was for both parties to lead each route.

Leader 1 climbs up, anchors Rope A and raps down (cleaning or unclipping gear as they go).
Leader 2 climbs up using Rope B - at anchors joins the two ropes and raps down cleaning gear as they go.

Works great, everyone safe, no passing of the knots, everyone gets the tick........

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
May 13, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Good positive holds all over this thing. Crux is about a move and a half between good edges.

By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This route has a short, but solid, 5.9 crux, with 5.7 & .8 climbing through the rest of it. Yes, it runs out a bit in a couple spots, but that doesn't increase the grade. The start of AHG has some harder moves off the deck which just barely pushes it to 10a territory (barely), but again, the rest of it is pretty much 5.7 & 8. Both are quite fun and you get excellent mileage. As for grades, I think people should go climb "Really, Really Ridiculously Good Looking " over on Zoo Wall and use that as the measure of an AH 10a, because that is 10a and it's really, really ridiculously good.

By BAd
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Yeah, Jeff, you're right about Zoo Wall. Check out the 10a's on Western Wall, too. Among the best in the Hills.

I still vote 10a for the crux on Pangborn, however. :)-