|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 300'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan|
|Submitted By:||Edward Medina on Nov 13, 2011|
|Comments on Pandora's Way||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: western NC
Mar 14, 2012
|Fun climbing but the pitch length's are all messed up, with the first being super short and the second being super long. Don't know if this is how it was originally done though.|
By Bob Rotert
Apr 4, 2012
I think a bolt may have been added to the first pitch of this. Originally the first pitch went up to a bit of a bowel for the belay. I believe it already had an old bolt in it left by some rappelling effort in the past. We were wondering what kind of trouble we were climbing into on this one so we named it Pandora's way.
It was the second of three new route's put up one 3 day Easter Weekend when Tom and I were in high school. 1973 I believe. The first was Electric Boobs, second this route and third Mecury's lead.
There was a sketchy tree limb, basically imaginary pro but may have slowed you a bit if you fell, we tied it off for pro to get up into the bowl for the first belay.
Second pitch then led off up and left out of the bowel as I recall and had a hairy run out after placing a bolt 30 or so feet out from the belay.
By Doug Swords
Apr 19, 2012
|That bowl sounds like where the first bolt of the 2nd pitch is now. This would be maybe 80 feet off the ground. Very interesting.|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2014
|There's presently evidence of a chopped bolt about 20' up, a good bolt 40 feet up, and an anchor in the bowl. It's a spicy first 40 feet, you climb right through the ends of some small tree limbs just before the bolt. Maybe when it got rebolted it was done to simulate the previous tree limb pro?|