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First climbed ground up trad in 2007 with sketchy protection but has had two bolts (plus anchors) added to protect the crux.
This was originally rated 5.7 then 5.8 but people whined and suggested 5.10 (BS!) so we rated it 5.9 so as not to sandbag too badly. It's a good safe lead now...
Solid start to a sequency and balancy crux that asks you to bear down hard on a crimp. Follow the water groove up using the crimp to a side pull and then shoot for the horn! Climb mellows above for 15/20 feet to the anchors.
2 bolts plus a few cams or nuts from #00 to #.75
Nodin atop Pandora's Box.
Kelly at the start
not quite vertical
Zach V sending