Pancakes and Cornflakes
||TR, 1 pitch, 30'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Diersen, Joseph Mayfield, Thuy and Jaeson Greer, Cambria Ortega, and Richard Alden|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||438|
|Submitted By: ||Chris D on Mar 12, 2012|
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BETA PHOTO: Cambria Ortega sets up for the crux pull-up on Pan...
Characterized by solid patina plates on very soft decomposing grainte, this little route is great fun (for about ten seconds)! Start by getting into the "dish" formed by patina plates by either stemming the corner on the right of the face (recommended), climbing straight up (some really crumbly rock) or climbing the arete from below (not recommended...adds 20 feet to the route, but there's a very loose big knob of rock at the top of the arete).
From inside the bowl, reach up to the top of the patina plates for great jug-handle holds that continue up and to the left. Some no-feet pull-ups on slightly more than vertical rock and a heel-hook will get you out of the bowl in a wildly fun couple of moves. From there is mostly over, but there's still some steep plates to hike to the anchor.
The west-facing plate-covered wall on the north face of Green Eggs and Ham
Toprope. Scramble up the gravelly slope behind the wall to set up an easy toprope with a couple of cams and a length of static rope or webbing wrapped around the giant boulder sitting at the top of the route.
Richard belays Joe Mayfield on Pancakes and Cornfl...
Pulling the crux on Pancakes and Cornflakes
Richard Alden pulling the crux on the day of the f...
Richard Alden, hanging the pre-crux move above the...
Chris Diersen, pulling into "the dish" f...
From: Los Angeles, CA
Dec 16, 2013
Chossy, I had to test all the holds carefully before committing. Arete variation is kinda fun, you can hook the rope behind some of the undercut plates for directional.. Chimney in the dihedral is ok if you're small.