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Squamish Buttress
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Pan Tease Lower T 
Squamish Butt Face, The T 
Squamish Buttress, The T 
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Pan Tease Lower 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: harihari on May 14, 2012

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Description 

A much more interesting way to get to the Buttress crux pitch or Butt-Face than the crappy rambly standard approach. The final 10c pitch is stellar!

P1: 5.10b 35m Make easy moves up the v-slot past the bush onto a slab. Head up and left past a bolt, up and right through a small roof, then hard right to two bolts.

P2: 5.9 25m Step right, go up a groove, then hard right across a slab (pin + bolt) and up to two bolts by an overlap.

P3: 5.10b 25m Do a tough move over (or aid using bolts; sometimes wet) the overlap and head across the slab. You will eventually see a tree with old slings.

P4: 5.7 10m Go straight up to a bolt belay on a cedar.

(You can easily link P3 and P4 with judicious use of slings)

P5: 5.10c 40m The money pitch. Step left and up a short handcrack. (The awesome hanging flake rightward is 11+). Traverse left into another crack (easy), then stem, layback, mantle and jam up the looong beautiful varied corner to chains.

Walk to climber's right to a smorgasbord of cracks from 10c to 12a.

If you want to do Butt-Face (5.9) instead of the Buttress 5.10c crux pitch, scramble 10 fet down from the Buttress terrace, then rap 20m off a good tree and you will be at the base of Butt-Face.


Location 

Start about 25 feet to climber's right of where the standard Squamish Buttress 5.9 pitch starts. As you move right along the trail, look up, and you will see a V-block hanging in a small v-slot with a small tree just above the block. Scramble up ten feet to a comfy stance (2 trees) to belay.

Protection 

2x Camalots from .3 to #1
1x Camalots #2 and #3
long slings


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By Johnny Y
From: California
Aug 19, 2014

maybe because of all the moss, I couldn't find the pin and bolt on the second pitch, definitely no fall zone on mossy slab