Well I hope this doesn't come as a surprise, but Mike Carville's book is wrong on this one.
The bolted route depicted in his book is NOT a 5.9 with a 10a/b start. Its an 11c. The direct start to Palsy ascends the off-fingers crack that starts 10 feet of the deck. The face climbing up to the crack is challenging and unprotected, the crack is good, then you mantle onto a ledge and ascend the 5.9 dihedral crack that can't be seen from the deck. You can easily avoid the 5.10 stuff by walking around to the right onto the ledge that the dihedral starts from, but the .10 part is a lot more intruiging than the .9 part.
Less than an inch for the lower 5.10 crack, then up to 3 inches for the longer 5.9 crack. There are 2 bolts with chains atop the rock.
By Salamanizer Administrator From: Vacaville Ca. Jun 20, 2006
Hey, what's that .11c face climb between Palsy and Hair Shirt called? Its probably the worst bolted, contrived, wondering hard to clip POS I have ever climbed. Seriously, all the bolts are in the worst possible place to clip and they seem to wonder away form all the good holds to follow the blank sections. Horrible squeeze job at most. Its obvious someone didn't know what they were doing. None the less, whats it called? Oops, I'm being a jerk.....well then it was ok. Just my .02.
Wow, did I get spanked on this 5.9! This was the biggest sandbag I ever fell for! Mike Carville's guide clearly shows where the route traverses in from the right side so the "direct start" must start directly below the first bolt near the left side of the beautiful face. This start certainly felt hard for a 10a/b (my first clue that something might be wrong) but it was first thing in the morning and it was around 40 degrees... The second bolt was quite aways up from the first and the climbing was very thin. 2 or 3 decent cams added additional protection to get to the second bolt. For a 5.9 it certainly was hard right off the bat. Moaning and groaning, I managed to get up to the fourth bolt. Two bolts were of course just out of reach by a foot standing on the few scarce half knuckle holds. Very dicey clipping... a double rope would have been nice here. The left edge is good for liebacking off but there is very little on the face and it is steep. To wrap up, I blew out and ended up using the right edge to get up the thing making long reaches out left to clip the bolts. I bitched and moaned for the rest of the day saying something was wrong. I can climb 5.9 face! Did Free Falling (5.9) right side of the Peanut Gallery and this was a walk up. Got home and found Brians comments about the guide book being mistaken. At least I got sandbagged on a hard route! And although I agree with most of Salamanizer's comments, this route is a great route. A classic face climb up the long, narrow band of rock.
Anyone out there know what this face climb is called and how hard it is?
Did you manage to get up this face climb? How hard did you think it was? The move to the first bolt was hard and almost every move after that. What did you think of the first moves and where did you think the crux was? I only made it to the fourth bolt and my arms gave out. Fun climb though, especially thinking it was a 5.9 and I was just climbing poorly...
The bolted face climb that starts just right of hair shirt is called "On Edge" 5.11c. The guidebook messed up the starts and "Palsy" ascends the corner around the corner on very fun finger locks.
By J. Hickok Aug 16, 2013 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Fun climb, especially the start to the ledge. The TR version of the 11c face under the anchor is quite fun and sustained, and I can definitely relate to Salamanizer's comments on leading it. The move getting started towards the bottom felt harder than 11c.