Mountain Project: Climbing Albuquerque Area Climbing

Palomas Peak (8,250ft) is a minor peak in the Sandia massif. As in the Sandia Mountains proper, the top layer of Palomas is limestone, forming in this case two separate cliff bands; the higher cliff band (at around 8,000ft) is the developed Palomas crag, although the lower cliff band is seeing some limited development (the online guide only covers the upper cliff band; the lower band has few routes, is exposed to rockfall from activity on the higher band, and features rock of much lower quality.) The limestone is of good quality, with very sharp, highly textured surface; taping up for cracks is mandatory and frequent resoling necessary. Be prepared for a lot of smearing and edging and for small holds. The crag has two Flavors: one area at the south end is very steep and features hard (12s and 13s) overhanging climbs, while the rest is a mix of natural-pro cracks and bolted, nearly vertical slabs; the latter are the most characteristic feature of Palomas. The cliff band varies from 30ft to 70ft, with most climbs in the 50-60ft range. All sports climbs (and several crack climbs) are equipped with lowering anchors (mostly two bolts and chains, but also welded coldshuts or rap hangers). (Pasted directly from online guidebook.)

Getting There

From Albuquerque, take I-40 east, exit at Tijeras (Exit 175) and head north on NM 14 through Cedar Crest; after about 6 miles, turn left onto the Sandia Crest road (NM 536); soon after passing the ski area base (about 9 miles after leaving NM 14), turn off right (at Balsam Glade picnic area) onto dirt road leading to Placitas; after about 2 miles, stop at left turn with 3 concrete barriers west of the burn area. (If you get to Las Huertas picnic ground or the Sandia Man Cave, you have gone too far down.) Drive time is 40-50 mins. From Santa Fe, you can take I-25 to Placitas, exit to NM 165 and drive 14 miles to the parking area (the last 5 miles on dirt), but it is faster to take NM 14 south to the junction with the Sandia Crest road and proceed as above. Parking is limited and often a severe problem on week-ends: there is room for 8-9 cars at the 3 concrete barriers if you park perpendicular to the barriers; about 40m down the road from the turn, there is room (sideways) for 4 more cars on the uphill side; note that rangers will ticket any car that impinges upon the roadway. PLEASE CARPOOL and PARK WELL! Take the trail right by the barriers (note: walk UP the hill a little way beyond the barriers, and the trail is very large and prominant!); follow it across the burn area and through the forest, on a mostly level course, to a dry creek bed; at the creek bed turn sharp left onto an ascending trail that takes you to the corner of a LARGE clearing. The first turn on the left (sometimes barred), just before entering the clearing, puts you on the trail to the lower cliff band. The second turn on the left, just after entering the clearing and thus only 10 yards beyond the first turn, puts you on the trail to the upper cliff band (if you begin going through a huge open area, you are going too far. You can see the cliffs up and to the left when you see the trails veering off to the left). Allow about half an hour for the hike up with a full pack. Please stay on the trail: the native flora is easily damaged. From December till March, expect hazardous driving conditions on the dirt road (often only accessible from the Placitas side), possibly deep snow on the trail (bring mountaineering boots or snowshoes), and cold temperatures, although the rock dries up quickly and stays warm in the sun. (Copied directly from online guidebook).

The Walls of Palomas

Resources

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Palomas Peak:

Finger Flake 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet (04) Showdown Wall

Wavy Gravy 5.8 Sport (05) The Transition Zone

Pussy Whipped 5.8+ Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet (09) The Far Side II

Don't Miss Out 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet (09) The Far Side II

Classic Jam Crack 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet, Grade II (06) The Dihedral Wall

Tiger by the Tail 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet (09) The Far Side II

Lonesome Dove 5.9+ Sport (09) The Far Side II

Patchwork 5.10c Sport (09) The Far Side II

Checkers 5.10c Sport (09) The Far Side II

Green Eggs and Ham 5.10c Sport (06) The Dihedral Wall

Have Slab Will Travel 5.10c Sport, 35 feet (05) The Transition Zone

Stick To Stucco 5.10c Sport (05) The Transition Zone

Rambling Man 5.10c/d Sport, 40 feet (08) The Far Side I

Curious George 5.10d Sport, 40 feet (08) The Far Side I

Quickdraw McGraw 5.11b/c Sport (06) The Dihedral Wall

Rode Hard 5.11c Sport (05) The Transition Zone

Nature of the Beast 5.12a Sport, 70 feet (01) The Entrance

Sidewinder 5.12b Sport (01) The Entrance

Turbo Trad 5.13a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet (02) The Slab Wall

Snake Dance 5.13+ Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet (02) The Slab Wall

Comments on Palomas Peak

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 30, 2010

By Nick Manke
From: Edgewood, NM
Nov 10, 2008

A great guide book for this area is the Falcon Guide for New Mexico.

By Dave Wachter
Feb 15, 2009

That's not a great guidebook for anywhere. The online guide (see link, above) is way better, and free!

By Paul Davidson
Feb 16, 2009

Gotta agree with Dave on that one.
Falcon guides are notoriously inaccurate.

They seem to be the dash and slash version climbing guides.

By Dave Wachter
Sep 4, 2009

Quick poll for anybody interested: I'd like to put in a new anchor for "Patchwork" ("Far Side II" area) at what's currently the last bolt. Will avoid the final 8 feet of awkward and potentially dangerous climbing off the big bivvy ledge to reach the current anchor. I don't have contact info for Randy Eisler (listed as the first ascentionist, and I'm assuming he's also the bolter...). If I don't hear back from someone soon, I'm just going to do it, because it's a quality climb (aside from the finish), and more importantly, because it's a safety issue. I'll also put in lowering clips, to further improve safety and convenience.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 4, 2009

Dave,

I think its a good idea. I recommend that you leave the original anchor so that each climber can decide for themselves if they want to do the final boulder problem.

I wonder if Randy Eisler is the same Randy that cranks like a teenager at Stoneage. LeeAB would probably know...

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 4, 2009

I can try to contact Randy, though I have not seen him in the gym in at least a year. A note of interest on Randy, a couple of years ago he complete the leadville 100 for the 10th straight year. . . and no, not on a bike, the running race. So he might just be running now.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 5, 2009

I was wondering if that Randy was the same Randy I know from Hardrock and Leadville. Cool. I might have contact info for him or at least know how to get it. I'll try for it...

By Dave Wachter
Sep 6, 2009

Actually, I was planning to put the bolt in on lead, using a hand drill the old-fashioned way. A tribute to John Bachar. Power drills are for wussies. By the way, Mike, congrats on your Climbing mag photo. Hopefully I'll make it up there soon to sample some of your new routes.

*Note - this comment was written in response to a post that once existed, but has been removed (mysterious Taos climber/recluse - you know the type). Anyhow, it's not as random as it seems.

By Paul Davidson
Sep 7, 2009

On the lead ?
Aren't you standing on a big ledge to drill the bolt?

While I'm all in favor of the "new" anchor, I doubt JB would feel all that honored by it.

By Dave Wachter
Sep 8, 2009

Damn, you weren't supposed to tell anybody about the ledge! I was going to write an article about the bolt placement for Climbing mag, complete with a teetering bat hook, rope-eating hanta-infested mice, and dive-bombing peregrines.
Seriously, I don't have any particular plan for bolt drilling yet, and I'm hoping to talk to Randy before going ahead. I think he authored a great route (which is, by the way, sustained and plenty long enough without the top bit), and I'll leave the original anchor alone under the assumption that he had some reason for putting it up there (which continues to elude me and many others...). I'll have to borrow a hand-drill or power drill from a friend - it'll probably be the former because I don't want to lug a power drill all the way up there for the sake of one bolt.

By Dave Wachter
Sep 9, 2009

Found a good deal on Fixe sport anchors:
www.northernmountain.com/detail/540505
A bit klunky and obvious from below, but these puppies will make cleaning the anchor quick and safe. Any better ideas?
- Dave

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 9, 2009

Thanks for the link, Dave. Those Fixe sport anchors are way quality and I've installed a few myself (when I could afford them.) I paint them with a primer spray paint to try to match the rock color and they don't hardly seem intrusive.

By No Juan
Apr 9, 2010

I don't think this is a great idea. I have been to Palomas recently and am glad you never added a new anchor station. The last eight feet of this climb helps make the grade, and is exciting after the long lead.

By ian watson
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 18, 2010

I did my first outdoor lead here, the route was in the red light district i belive and i think it was a 5.6, the route is not listed here but its the one that traverses to the left alot. Anyone know what this route is called? If i remember correctly it had 3-4 bolts to 2ba with chains. (EDIT) , the route was called people mover and has been added to the datebase.

By markthomas
Oct 30, 2010

There is a large no parking sign right in the middle of the parking area. Is this new?

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Palomas Peak

Description

Getting There

The Walls of Palomas

Resources

The Classics