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Palmer Gulch

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Chipmunk Stampede T 
Mr. November Too T 

Palmer Gulch  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Harrison Teuber on Mar 26, 2013
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63° | 35°
66° | 44°
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67° | 45°
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74° | 49°
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There are some pretty good adventurous type routes up the nelson creek/palmer gulch area. They need to see some more traffic so they can be cleaned up a bit.


Comprised of Harney Peak and the ridge to the N of the massif, Nelson Creek Ridge. Palmer Gulch is home to countless Conn routes, a few new routes, and the Harney Peak ice flow in the winter. All routes are in the Black Elk Wilderness and require a bit of hiking to access.

Getting There 

Directions: From the Entrance of the memorial, continue NW on H-24 for 6.4 miles to Palmer Creek road. Head S on PC road for .9 miles to the PC trailhead.

Approach: (1.3 miles) from the trailhead, head S on the trail across the creek to intersect the lost cabin trail #2, take a left. Head E along the trail down to the nelson creek drainage to intersect a closed trail. Take a right and follow the drainage S up the closed trail for a while and eventually intersect the granite ridge (GPS N43.874200*W103.543767*). The first formation is Bow Spirit to the NE.
- For Harney Peak Massif - Cross the creek shortly after passing the granite ridge and head S again up the drainage. Follow a very faint trail while bush whacking, but you should be able to keep the large granite massif in view.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Palmer Gulch
We did a needles style rappel with one rope off a car sized block after 3rd classing for 100ft to the east off the south side.

Chipmunk Stampede 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  SD : Palmer Gulch
jack and I put up what we think is a new route on the west shoulder of the Main North Face of Elkhorn Peak just east of Harney Peak. We are calling it Chipmunk Stampede It is a 400ft 3 pitch route that is all crack with great gear. The first pitch is a 160ft dirty looking chimney that actually climbs quite cleanly with great gear mostly in a finger and hand crack on the right. It looks like it will be some serious mungeneering but really isn't because you can climb on the outside by stemming on ...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Palmer Gulch Add Comment
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By aschwartz
From: Spearfish,SD
Jun 27, 2013
Why can't i add formations to this area?
By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 28, 2013
Cause you shouldn't
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2013
From a technical standpoint, you can't add sub-areas to an area that has routes already listed in it.

You or an administrator would need to move that route out to a temporary area, add the sub-areas you want to add, then move the route back in to the sub-area where it belongs.

Whether you *should* add the areas I suppose is a different question best answered by a local. I did recently see someone was taking photos of photos from the new Busse guidebook and posting them on here as beta photos. That's probably not cool...
By Mike Housiaux
From: Rapid City
Jun 28, 2013
What are you trying to add? I know a trick or two.
By aschwartz
From: Spearfish,SD
Jun 30, 2013
The formations bowsprit poopdeck & barnacle...John this for you benefit so when go back there you can taste it, not waste it!