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Palmer Gulch

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Palmer Gulch  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Harrison Teuber on Mar 26, 2013
Forecast:
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Clear
63° | 35°
Clear
66° | 44°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
67° | 45°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
68° | 46°
Clear
74° | 49°
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Description 

There are some pretty good adventurous type routes up the nelson creek/palmer gulch area. They need to see some more traffic so they can be cleaned up a bit.

  • All INFO TAKEN FROM BUSSE/BURR 'THE NEEDLES OF RUSHMORE' GUIDEBOOK

Comprised of Harney Peak and the ridge to the N of the massif, Nelson Creek Ridge. Palmer Gulch is home to countless Conn routes, a few new routes, and the Harney Peak ice flow in the winter. All routes are in the Black Elk Wilderness and require a bit of hiking to access.

Getting There 

Directions: From the Entrance of the memorial, continue NW on H-24 for 6.4 miles to Palmer Creek road. Head S on PC road for .9 miles to the PC trailhead.

Approach: (1.3 miles) from the trailhead, head S on the trail across the creek to intersect the lost cabin trail #2, take a left. Head E along the trail down to the nelson creek drainage to intersect a closed trail. Take a right and follow the drainage S up the closed trail for a while and eventually intersect the granite ridge (GPS N43.874200*W103.543767*). The first formation is Bow Spirit to the NE.
- For Harney Peak Massif - Cross the creek shortly after passing the granite ridge and head S again up the drainage. Follow a very faint trail while bush whacking, but you should be able to keep the large granite massif in view.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Palmer Gulch
We did a needles style rappel with one rope off a car sized block after 3rd classing for 100ft to the east off the south side.

Chipmunk Stampede 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  SD : Palmer Gulch
jack and I put up what we think is a new route on the west shoulder of the Main North Face of Elkhorn Peak just east of Harney Peak. We are calling it Chipmunk Stampede It is a 400ft 3 pitch route that is all crack with great gear. The first pitch is a 160ft dirty looking chimney that actually climbs quite cleanly with great gear mostly in a finger and hand crack on the right. It looks like it will be some serious mungeneering but really isn't because you can climb on the outside by stemming on ...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Palmer Gulch Add Comment
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By aschwartz
From: Spearfish,SD
Jun 27, 2013
Why can't i add formations to this area?
By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 28, 2013
Cause you shouldn't
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2013
From a technical standpoint, you can't add sub-areas to an area that has routes already listed in it.

You or an administrator would need to move that route out to a temporary area, add the sub-areas you want to add, then move the route back in to the sub-area where it belongs.

Whether you *should* add the areas I suppose is a different question best answered by a local. I did recently see someone was taking photos of photos from the new Busse guidebook and posting them on here as beta photos. That's probably not cool...
By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Jun 28, 2013
What are you trying to add? I know a trick or two.
By aschwartz
From: Spearfish,SD
Jun 30, 2013
The formations bowsprit poopdeck & barnacle...John this for you benefit so when go back there you can taste it, not waste it!