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Palm Reader 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Naylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: tim naylor on Aug 22, 2007
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Description 

The crux passing first bolt to blind holds. Follow juggy face and crack to top. The route is loose on middle ledge and mostly 5.9 climbing. I want to chip crux to keep it all .9!!! Was put up on lead, anchors and 3rd bolt need to be moved.


Location 

Second route on right side of bc area, starts behind bushes.


Protection 

8 bolts? long sling for 3rd bolt. At the top, traverse left to anchor on left side of chossy ledge be careful. I put it there trying to get anchor in for rap bolting. I will try to fix this route soon.



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By Mike Howard
Administrator
Aug 22, 2007

Tim,
Ouch! those first few crimps were hard as well as getting my feet up under me. I thought there was possibly a start to the Right(North) we could try. I'd be glad to help, but agree with your choice not to chip it. There are bound to be other ways. Thanks for the route none the less.
Mike.
p.s. Let me know if the other entries on Vista Verde make sense, comments welcome. Cheers.

By tim naylor
Aug 23, 2007

anything you can figure out would be welcome. haven't had time or motivation to fix. We could flame eachother about chipping to get attention to taos?? Funny que no.

By Mike Howard
Administrator
Aug 23, 2007

Yeah, I hear 'Question of Balance' could be "improved".

By tim naylor
Aug 24, 2007

I would like to chip anything that steep and thin! why try to get better when faced with a daunting challenge.